Thursday, Nov. 24, 2022 | 2 a.m.
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Thanksgiving is, of course, America’s ultimate eating holiday.
And as families and friends gather to partake in one of the most gluttonous meals of the year — and people will complain, as they already have been online, about turkey. Again.
The dish more synonymous with the holiday than any other has come under attack in recent years. It’s become trendy to call turkey bland and boring, or a waste of coveted space on the Thanksgiving plate, a distraction from the scores of beloved side dishes to be devoured.
The anti-turkey discourse gobbled again when New York Magazine’s culture website The Cut wrote a diatribe against the centerpiece last year, mostly citing how arduous it is to prepare the massive fowl for minimal payoff.
No. No, no, no.
Let’s get one thing straight: There are no bad Thanksgiving turkeys, only substandard holiday chefs.
Here are three very simple solutions to make your turkey shine.
1. Cook the turkey properly
Obvious, right? Yet there are countless methods, thousands of recipes and myriad tips and tricks that circulate toward the end of November. Brine it? Deep-fry it? Wrap it in bacon? Cook it upside-down?
I’ve had delicious birds prepared almost all of these ways — my pops loves the bacon-wrapping method. But I’ve always kept it very simple. Season the heck out of it, rubbing under and over the skin with a blend of olive oil, salt, pepper, rosemary, thyme, garlic and whatever other herbs you like (if you feel like you’re overdoing it, it’s perfect). Then shove some onions and lemons into the turkey’s cavity to further the flavor enhancement.
The majority of professional chefs I’ve talked to about bird day cooking suggest the low and slow method: get the oven to 425 degrees but drop it to 325 when the turkey goes in. Baste, but don’t over-baste. And most importantly, don’t overcook the turkey! Use a meat thermometer — aim for 165 degrees — and don’t trust the built-in turkey popper or you’re cruising for a dry bird. Thirteen to 15 minutes per pound is a solid rule of thumb, but don’t be afraid to lean toward 13.
2. Plate construction is key
If you tell me your Thanksgiving turkey was lame but send me a picture of a plate that’s half turkey, I’m no longer blaming the bird. I’m blaming you. It’s not the turkey’s fault you don’t understand Thanksgiving plate architecture.
No matter how good the bird is, you don’t want to let it dominate the plate. Treat it like just another side dish, and before you know it, you’ll find yourself craving another serving when you get up for seconds (and thirds).
3. Go to the dark side
Don’t you dare speak ill of turkey if you’re only eating white meat. Dark meat is juicer, more flavorful and tender than white meat — it’s also more forgiving if overcooked — and frankly is the superior dish. I prefer a little bit of both on my plate for balance.
A final note: Thanksgiving dinner should be whatever you want it to be. Feel like serving a chicken instead of a turkey? Go for it, who am I to judge. No meat? Respect to the vegetarians. And yeah, the sides are an essential part of the Thanksgiving meal. But that doesn’t mean turkey doesn’t deserve a seat at the table, or a spot on your plate.
Jeremy Schneider is a food and culture reporter for NJ.com and The Star-Ledger.
