Wednesday, Dec. 10, 2014 | 6 p.m.
One could argue, and Oscar Goodman would, that the spine of Las Vegas’ history is the pork neckbone recipe of Angie Ruvo.
Neckbones were the signature dish of the old Venetian Restaurant and Pizzeria, which was owned by Lou and Angie Ruvo and whose staff (naturally) featured the young, magnanimous bus boy Larry Ruvo. The family opened the restaurant in 1955. Originally located on Fremont Street in downtown Las Vegas, the Venetian moved to West Sahara Avenue in 1966, at the parcel currently occupied by Herbs & Rye.
The Ruvos owned and operated the restaurant for 43 years. Through the course of its history, the Venetian was one of the favorite hangouts for all levels of Las Vegas’ power community, including straggling members of The Rat Pack, reputed mobsters and a young attorney named Oscar Goodman. He would represent many of those purported — and always, they would be purported — mafia kingpins.
But mostly, Goodman remembers the Venetian as a family restaurant. He treated his wife, Carolyn, and kids to dinner there at least once a week.
“It was the quintessential Las Vegas place,” says Goodman, who Thursday night is celebrating the memory of the Venetian and Angie Ruvo’s famed neckbones recipe with the latest in his dinner series speaking sessions. The dinner is a benefit for Keep Memory Alive, the philanthropic arm of the Cleveland Clinic Lou Ruvo Center for Brain Health. The center was founded by Larry Ruvo in honor of his father, who died of Alzheimer’s in 1994.
Unlike previous such events, this Goodman spectacular will be held in the main dining room of Oscar’s Beef Booze & Broads at the Plaza. The previous dinners, which have focused on such old-Vegas subjects as Caesars Palace and Circus Circus founder Jay Sarno, have been tucked away in the restaurant’s unmarked speakeasy dining area.
Not this one. It is too big. The Ruvo family, including 91-year-old Angie, will be on hand. Of the family matriarch, Goodman says, “She’s sharp as a tack.” (Which is true as I just saw her last month hanging out at “The Dennis Bono Show” at South Point.) To boost Goodman’s talk about his years frequenting the restaurant, Angie also will address those assembled.
“She’ll be talking a little about neckbones and a lot about the people who went into the restaurant,” Goodman says. “The conversation and the food will be terrific.”
Goodman said the Venetian was one of the first establishments in which he entered and immediately felt like “somebody.”
“I was just a young attorney, having moved to Las Vegas with Carolyn in 1964, but when I walked into the Venetian, I felt like a big shot,” Goodman says. “Lou was the owner and the maître’ d, Angie did the cooking of her recipes, and Larry bused the tables. They got a kick out of my clients who would come in there, and the staff was always made up of the same people. They knew everybody.”
Goodman says the level of service at the Venetian is still the gold standard of hotel-casinos in Las Vegas today.
“All the mega-resorts try to achieve this type of service, and we do it at Oscar’s, too,” he says. “It’s more difficult with so many tourists who come to the city. They are always looking for the places where locals hang out, and that’s what the Venetian was.”
And for a night, it will be again.
"My expectations aren't that high for my place... just the best food, the best service, the best ambiance and the best broads!" - former Las Vegas Mayor Oscar B. Goodman.
Goodman, opened his signature steakhouse in December 2011, bringing memorabilia he accumulated during his 12 years as mayor. His restaurant, which is in the glass dome atop the front entrance of the Plaza Hotel and Casino, features aged steaks cooked over a 600-degree grill, which is accompanied by high-quality, made-from-scratch sides by Chef Jeffrey Martell. The libations feature a variety of hand-crafted cocktails.
The restaurant combines the meal and drinks with the opportunity to have one of Oscar's "Broads" visit with customers during dinner.
"These attractive women are reminiscent of the iconic showgirls who accompanied the former mayor to events during his tenure. However, instead of being showgirls, these women will be dinner companions who can discuss Las Vegas history or things to do downtown or on the Strip. When not mingling with customers, they stroll through the restaurant as hostesses, adding to the glamorous and uniquely Vegas style of Oscar's," according to the restaurant's promotional materials. The restaurant opens daily at 5 p.m. Reservations can be made onlineor by calling 702-386-7227.
Oscar's Lounge is just outside the restaurant, featuring hor d'ourves, such as crab cakes or seared ahi tuna, and martinis. The lounge opens daily at 4 p.m.
Calvin & James, an acoustic jazz duo, from live entertainment from 7 p.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
A private dining area, which can accommodate up to 100 people, is also available, serving Italian entrees and appetizers inspired by family recipes or named after legendary mobsters.
Follow John Katsilometes on Twitter at Twitter.com/JohnnyKats. Also, follow “Kats With the Dish” at Twitter.com/KatsWiththeDish.
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