Las Vegas Sun

March 29, 2024

Restaurants holding court in valley shopping malls

Those curious as to what the typical American is eating these days need go no further than the nearest shopping mall food court. Food courts reflect what could best be termed ever-changing American tastes in eating.

Today, virtually every food court has an array of venues serving Asian, Italian, American and fast foods -- in short, something to please every palate. This will be further reflected when the upscale Fashion Show mall unveils its new food court sometime this fall.

There is some variance with regard to franchises, but the basic composition of these public spaces, which cater to every demographic from teenagers on an afternoon jag to single shoppers and large families, is remarkably similar from mall to mall. The only beef, really, is with quality, which isn't always as high as it could be.

Boulevard mall

This handsome mall was completely remodeled in the early '90s, and the food court got a new face as well. A few of the venues have even done a remodel since then, such as the Japanese fast food restaurant Hibachi-san, which did one last year.

This food court is a clean, modern area, with a Hollywood theme and a half-moon configuration. The venues are placed around the curve, and there is a cheerful, brightly lit commons area for seating. Many of the usual suspects -- Cinnabon, McDonald's, Panda Express and Sbarro -- are in residence, and by the main entrance there are a couple of other places to eat, such as Hot Dog on a Stick and Orange Julius.

The variety is impressive in Las Vegas, plus the fact that there are a few unusual franchises not found elsewhere in Southern Nevada.

One example is Lahaina Chicken Company, a branch of a Hawaiian eatery with stores in Maui and Oahu. The specialties are roast chicken, roast pork and rib eye roast, plus side dishes such as Korean-style kimchi, macaroni salad and long rice, wispy mung bean noodles mixed with vegetables and stir-fried. Combos, served with a choice of three side dishes, are $5.49 to $6.99.

At the Soup and Sandwich Company, the closest thing this food court has to a deli, a nice hot pastrami is $5.99. There are six hot soups daily, and even quiche at $3.99 a wedge.

The very good fresh-Mex concept, La Salsa, has a branch in this food court as well, and its boast is no MSG, microwaves, can openers or lard. All salsas on the good salsa bar are made fresh on the premises, and grilled boneless chicken, nicely trimmed steak, mahi-mahi or shrimp are used for tacos and burritos. A taco basket -- two tacos served with chips -- is $4.90. Burritos start at $5.40.

The court also offers Cajun foods at Big Easy, French sandwiches and salads at Le Petit Bistro, and sushi and Japanese teriyaki dishes at Hibachi-san, all for under $10 per person.

Meadows mall

This mall was constructed after the Boulevard mall, but the food court, a pleasant second-floor space, is older, since it hasn't been revamped. There is a nice dining area with stools and tables, and 14 venues offering a variety of cuisines.

A few venues are familiar: McDonald's, Dairy Queen, Orange Julius and Hot Dog on a Stick. But in the case of Meadows mall, the Italian venue is the local Villa Pizza instead of national chain Sbarro, and the ubiquitous Panda Express isn't here at all, but rather a smaller operator called China Inn, with a menu and price point similar to the Panda chain.

There is also Pretzelmaker, a stand-in for popular chain Auntie Anne's, which is found in several area malls. Pretzelmaker's hot pretzels sell for $1.89-$2.19, and a number of specialty dipping sauces, such as cheese and hot caramel, are 50 cents extra.

This food court has other distinctive places. One is Crepe de France, where savory and sweet crepes are made in front of the diners, just as they are on the street in La Belle France. Savory crepes have fillings such as ground beef, spinach, garlic and Swiss cheese, and smoked salmon, and are priced from $4.95-$5.95. The sweet crepes, $2.95-$3.95, have fillings such as peaches, the chocolate hazelnut spread Nutella (a favorite in Europe), a thick chestnut puree and a variety of jams.

Another good bet is Hola's Mexican Grill, where the rice and beans are lovingly and slowly cooked, and the ever- popular Schlotzky's Deli, which features hot sandwiches on round, fresh bread. Sandwiches start at $4.25, and it has an impressive selection of soups and salads as well.

Galleria mall

Henderson's largest mall also has a mind-numbing variety of places to choose from in its food court, which features a sit-down area with tables and plastic patio chairs. In addition to a McDonald's, Hot Dog on a Stick, Panda Express, Sbarro and Cinnabon, there is Greek, Cajun, Japanese and Mexican. What more could one ask?

The Cinnabon manager looked amused when she was asked for nutritional info about the chain's caramel pecanbon. No wonder. This delicious sweet, which is $2.99, has 1,100 calories and an amazing 141 grams of carbohydrates. For those on the Atkins diet, that's an entire week's worth.

Meanwhile over at the Honey Tree, where Greek food reigns supreme, a baby Greek salad, complete with feta cheese and Kalamata olives, is an excellent deal at $2.95. The spinach cheese pie is also delicious, and a gyro sandwich is $4.05, one of the lowest prices for this sandwich in town.

Tacomaker charges only 99 cents for a plain taco with ground meat or chicken, and $4.29 for a deluxe combo with two tacos, rice, beans, tortillas and all the trimmings.

Stop by the Great Steak and Potato Company for a reasonable take on the Philadelphia cheesesteak. A small, which is pretty substantial, is $4.29, and a large is $5.99. Either way, they'll be grilled and stuffed as you watch.

archive