Gourmet pizza joints deliver authentic taste

By Max Jacobson

Wednesday, Feb. 18, 2009 | 4:35 p.m.

Greeting, Vegas epicures.

Today's theme is pizza, and no one does them better than Brad Otton, owner and operator of Settebello in Green Valley. The name comes from a card game, Scopa, in which the card nicknamed Settebello, a seven embossed with gold spots, is the most valuable one.

Otton's newest digs, located in The District, has a stone oven imported from Italy, a pizzaiolo (pizza man) from Vico Equense, (in Campania Province south of Naples,) and the designation VPN, or vera pizza Napoletana, "real pizza Neapolitan style." He is also the owner of a second Settebello, in Salt Lake City, Utah.

These generally simple pizzas have a wickedly chewy crust, and come to the table uncut, unless otherwise requested. The idea is to tear off a hunk and dig in, the way it is done in Italy. The two star pizzas here, just as is the case in Naples, are Marinara, topped with crushed tomatoes, garlic, oregano and olive oil, and Margherita, crushed tomatoes, mozzarella cheese, basil, Parmesan and olive oil. All Otton's pizzas, for the record, use extra virgin olive oil exclusively. The man is a fanatic about top notch products.

Because meat toppings are popular in this country, Settebello's pizzas use pancetta and fennel scented salami from boutique producers, imports prosciutto from Parma, Italy, and makes a delicious wood oven roasted sausage. Other toppings available include anchovy, roasted mushrooms, pine nuts and artichoke hearts. In addition to the amazing pizzas, the restaurant serves a number of antipasti, salads and desserts.

Settebello is located at 140 Green Valley Pkwy., in Henderson. Call them at 222-3556 for hours and prices, or visit them online at www.settebello.net.

Another unusual place for pizza is Ambrosia, at 7377 S. Jones Blvd. The owner is from Bulgaria, and serves Balkan specialties such as meaty kabobs and stuffed grape leaves, if you have an adventurous palate. But the pizzas here are delicious, such as a white pizza topped with mozzarella, ricotta, Parmesan, provolone and fresh garlic, or the Greek pizza with gyro meat and Kalamata olives. Get details at 407-0014.

On the north side, Gallo's Pizza Kitchen is the ticket, at 3250 Tenaya Way. 656-9191.

The large menu here includes a gargantuan portion of homemade lasagna (1 1/2 pounds), and other homestyle faves, but pizzas are the main draw, and the restaurant delivers for free.

Perhaps a 16-inch Gourmet Pizza like the Philly Cheesesteak will satisfy that craving, or even Gallo's Signature, topped with spinach and artichokes in a garlicky Alfredo sauce.

Max Jacobson is the principal food columnist in the Las Vegas Weekly, and a Food and Wine Journalist for Vegas Magazine. He can be reached at 702-990-2454 or [email protected].