Las Vegas Sun

March 29, 2024

Columnist Muriel Stevens: Rio founder makes bid for to create largest wine cellar

RIO FOUNDER Tony Marnell's quest to have one of the finest wine collections ever to fill a cellar, reached new heights with the announcement of an acquisition of rare wines that ran into the millions.

Acting as Marnell's bidder, the Rio's master sommelier, Barrie Larvin, who is also the president of the world-renowned Court of Master Sommeliers, spent a record $5 million on fine wines.

It was a case of derring-do to rival any suspense novel, with intense secret bidding and much mystery. Among the purchases are two stunning Nebuchadnezzars of Chateau Mouton Rothschild, which sold for $33,350 each. Each bottle holds the equivalent of 20 regular-sized bottles or 120 glasses of wine -- a cost of about $278 per glass.

For five months, Larvin has been bidding and building what is intended to become the world's largest and most complete wine cellar.

The collection will be housed in the new Rio Masquerade Village, soon to open. Guests will be offered the opportunity to see, taste and purchase more than 600 different wines; 240 will be available by the glass. An added feature is a tasting room where a little of the story behind each wine will be told.

The Wine Cellar and Masquerade Village is scheduled to open in February.

More Rio

Rio's Italian Food Festival attracted a record number of fans who came to eat, to be entertained and to participate in the spaghetti-eating and grape-stomping contests. More than 50 local Italian restaurants provided generous quantities of food for little money. Rio's Toscano Bakery was a hit with a variety of wonderful breads selling for just $2 per loaf.

Winners of this year's sauce-cooking contest were the Venetian in the marinara sauce category; Pizzeria Uno had the prize-winning meat sauce; and Antonio's in the Rio won for its delicious mushroom-studded cream sauce.

Italia, the chef for the yet-to-open Mama Marie's Cucina, was kept busy dishing out her delicious version of lasagna -- just the right amount of sauce and meat layered between tender homemade noodles. Really good. Mama Marie's will specialize in family-style service and Italian family favorites.

JN's Magnolia Room

Jerry's Nugget in North Las Vegas has a new look and a new upscale dining room with popular prices. The Magnolia Room is part of a major remodeling and expansion program at Jerry's Nugget. Also new are the European Bakery showcase area located near the Magnolia Room where patrons can purchase baked goods to take home, and the Royal Street Theater -- the first entertainment venue for the property.

The bingo room has 100 more seats. The casino has an attractive new look, and the new exterior is very attractive.

Today is the official opening of the Magnolia Room, but I dined there during the soft opening. Restaurant consultant/chef de cuisine Marie Hummel has done a fine job of putting together an a la carte menu that is filled with well-priced choices, including appetizers ($5.95-$8.50), salads ($4.95-$6.75), pastas ($8.25-$13.75), seafood ($12.50-428) and meats ($10.50-$17.95). Also offered are a Greek sampler appetizer with dolmathes (stuffed grape leaves), spanikopita (spinach pie) and mini-souvlaki, and a special Greek dinner which changes regularly (ask the server).

Magnolia's is a comfortable, well-decorated room with classical background music ideal for conversation, and a caring staff.

My dining companions and I shared oysters Magnolia -- poached oysters atop a roasted portabella mushroom, masked with a light champagne sauce -- a fine starter, and crab cakes accompanied with a zesty pasilla pepper and dried cranberry chutney. Marie's braised leeks salad with balsamic vinaigrette was a winner, and so was the endive and sliced pear salad with toasted walnuts and Gorgonzola cheese. Portions are generous, so it's a good thing we were sharing.

Entrees are generously portioned, too. Fresh salmon on a bed of spinach with garlic, white wine and herbs, baked in parchment, covered the plate; chicken-breast Florentine (two boneless breasts wrapped in puff pastry) was a tasty preparation; breast of Muscovy duck with port wine raspberry sauce and double-cut lamb chops with an onion chutney was another good choice.

Of course, we shared our desserts ($4.25-$5.75), chosen from the separate dessert menu: lemon and raspberry souffle, raspberry creme brulee, chocolate chestnut pate, and Swiss peach cream cake with peach sauce. Order the souffles when ordering dinner. The rich chocolate chestnut pate, beautifully presented, and the warm, creamy souffle were my favorites.

A three-course dinner, without wine averages $24. A fine price for a most pleasant dining experience.

Jerry's Nugget owners Jerry Lodge and George Stamis have taken a bold step in a new direction that should please old and new customers alike.

Portabella Olympics

Las Vegas chefs responded to the first portabella mushroom Olympics sponsored by Collins Produce and Monterey Mushrooms with a host of original recipes featuring the delicious, meaty favorite.

First-place winner of $1,000 was Coyote Cafe Chef Tommy Birdwell; second place, $500, was captured by Sfuzzi Executive Chef Dan Drayer; and third place went to Mario Capone of Neros in Caesars Palace.

The smashing competition will be repeated next year. It is not yet open to the public, but the powers that be are talking about it.

Brown Derby Brunch

The Brown Derby in the MGM will debut a Grand Champagne Brunch on Sunday, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Price is $28.95 for adults; $10.95 for kids 6-12 years; free for kids 5 and under.

Featured are a complete seafood bar, filet mignon, prime rib and rack of lamb carved as you watch; eggs Benedict; cooked-to-order omelets and many more upscale food items and unlimited champagne. For reservations, call 891-3110 after 9 p.m.; Sundays, call 891-7318.

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