Friday, Aug. 22, 2003 | 8:36 a.m.
Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or [email protected].
Renoir at The Mirage Executive Chef Alexander Stratta is on a quest to change the perception that French food is "hoity-toity," and that Italian eateries are all about singing waiters.
Stratta is the fifth generation of his family to be involved in the hotel business. His roots are steeped in the traditions of French and Italian cuisine -- as the affable chef said, "The history of French and Italian cuisine are much the same. I want to create dishes that make the marriage of the two cuisines approachable."
We had this conversation a few days after I'd dined at Renoir.
"Renoir's menu changes every three months and is always inspired by what's in season and available," Stratta said. "I'm not an innovator, but I do enjoy creating new dishes from familiar ingredients. Only the finest foodstuffs available can produce the results I and my staff want."
Not innovative? This modest chef produces untold delights that may have familiar names, but have never before been prepared in the guise in which he presents them. The signature braised short rib with a peerless red wine reduction is an example. This is the benchmark by which I judge all of the others. Alex shared the secret of how he prepares his beef short ribs. It is, of course, only an illusion that a short rib could actually be lean, but it's the kind of delicious self-deception I admire.
It was not part of the sublime tasting dinners a friend and I shared. Tasting dinners are prix fixe, multicourse collations designed to show the scope of the kitchen. It's an ambrosial way to dine.
The current tasting menu ($115 per person -- add $58 per person for wine pairings) includes an amuse bouche, seared sea scallops with herbed farfalle pasta; sauteed foie gras with chanterelles and Maui onions; roasted halibut with fresh hearts of palm and black truffles; Wagyu beef (pronounced wagoo) with potato gnocchi, Parmagiana cheese and sauce Bordelaise; and for dessert, roasted peaches atop a brown butter almond cake and creamy, rich mascarpone ice cream.
Tasting menu choices are flexible. Diners may choose from any of the prix fixe dinner selections. Our dinners were a mix of the tasting dinner and the prix fixe selections. Prix fixe dinners ($85) include an amuse bouche, appetizer, entree and dessert. There are always appealing little extras.
Our dinner was a glorious feast of small courses and some not so small. Tiny hors d'oeuvres were presented on an oblong white porcelain tray -- spoons of lump crab meat from Australian blue crabs were accented with a splash of carrot-ginger sauce; a tender coin-size blini was topped with a dab of creme fraiche and golden osetra caviar; unctuous foie gras terrine was sandwiched between crispy taro root squares. And that was just the beginning.
The dinner choices were at the whim of the chef. With no idea of what was to come, I concentrated on the flavors, dredging from my taste memory past pleasures, one of which was included.
It is not often that I get to eat geoduck, a tasty, but weird-looking, long-necked clam found in the Pacific Northwest. The neck must be pounded like abalone to make it tender. Stratta's stir-fry used the body, not the neck. Stir-fried with garlic, fennel, orange zest and caramelized onions, it was magnificent. I recognized the flavor, but not the form. The body is firm but tender, and so good when prepared Stratta's way.
There were many more small courses: ricotta gnocchi with chanterelle mushrooms and spinach, Tuscan-style braised pork with mascarpone polenta, roasted Atlantic seabass and more.
Yet it was dessert that was our Waterloo. Pastry Chef Jenifer Witte grew up on a small farm in eastern Washington state. She developed a passion for pastries when she started cooking at a local family restaurant to earn money for college and later for pastry school at South Seattle College.
In 1997 Witte moved to Las Vegas and began her career at The Mirage working under Executive Pastry Chef Eugene Ess. Eventually, Witte became pastry chef at Renoir.
Before we had a chance to even consider dessert, a wave of gorgeous sweets covered our table. It was a display of such temptations that we were helpless, so we surrendered. One bite of each, we said, and almost succeeded.
Small, tasting-size souffles, one vanilla with creme Anglaise and one chocolate with warm chocolate sauce was memorable; a strawberries-and-cream concoction served in a tall coupe glass with strawberry sorbet and champagne was divine; a roasted banana parfait with macadamia nut brittle and coconut ice cream was awesome, and so was a caramelized apricot tart with lavender honey with a layered apricot nectar shake on the side. There was a trio of chocolate desserts and the roasted and brown butter almond cake with mascarpone ice cream. Blissful bites, each one.
With tea came warm delicate miniature madeleines, cookies and truffles. All irresistible.
Service at Renoir is always impeccable. General Manager Ralph Cautela has worked with Chef Stratta for eight years, beginning as the chef's sous chef at the Phoenician in Scottsdale, Ariz., and then at Renoir as general manager. We discussed the chef's new menu and menus past.
"Every time Chef Alex creates a new menu he's as inspired as if it were the first one," Cautela said. "After all this time I didn't think he could surprise me, but he always does."
Indeed he does.
Renoir offers dinner from 5:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Reservations are recommended. Call 791-7363.
Firefly Tapas Kitchen & Bar: A welcome addition to our dining scene is Firefly Tapas Kitchen & Bar at 3900 Paradise Road. Tapas are the small appetizer plates found in bars and restaurants all over Spain. Order enough and they can be a tasty meal.
Plates and portions are larger at Firefly. My first meal at Firefly was with one friend, and we had a terrific time. We ordered four dishes to share -- roasted eggplant cannelloni stuffed with goat cheese ($5), baby back ribs with mango barbecue sauce ($7), a warm spinach, artichoke and roasted pepper salad ($4) and duck-filled egg rolls with a cherry hoisin sauce ($6) -- and quickly discovered that three tapas would have sufficed.
There were four of us the next time, and we had a blast ordering, again, more than we could eat. The baby back ribs were a must, and we added crusty Serrano ham and Manchego cheese croquettes ($5), chicken salad with romaine, grapes and toasted walnuts ($5), ceviche of red snapper with avocado and a crispy tortilla garnish ($6), a skewer of beef tenderloin with meaty mushrooms and tomatoes ($9) and shrimp tempura-style with a ponzu dipping sauce.
Firefly's menu continues to grow with new tapas appearing all the time. Chef/partner John Simmons previously cooked at Mon Ami Gabi at The Venetian. His food is quite good, but sometimes inconsistent as changes continue to be made and they tweak the dishes. Considering that Firefly has been open a very short time, the kitchen is performing well.
Firefly is a comfortable, attractive eatery with appealing decor and decent service. Managing partner Ramon F. Triay keeps a watchful eye on the dining room and bar, and is a gracious host. Lunch and dinner are offered daily. Lunch features tapas and hamburgers, grilled chicken or ahi tuna sandwiches, shrimp salad and steak frites -- marinated grilled skirt steak with the house signature Parmesan fries and aioli ($10-$14).
Firefly's dinner menu includes the tapas selection and entrees. Menus change frequently, but typically include grilled shrimp pasta, a big bowl of angel hair with vegetables and six shrimp, roast chicken and the steak frites.
Among the desserts ($4 and $5) are a dense, flavorful flan sprinkled with berries and a delicious chocolate creme brulee served with cookies.
Reservations are suggested for parties of six or more. Call 369-3971.
Firefly is open daily from 11:30 a.m. to 3 a.m.
Short orders
La Salsa Cantina at Showcase Mall: La Salsa Cantina Mexican Fare at the Showcase Mall on the Strip has opened. Featured are the zesty flavors of Mexico, La Salsa-style. Fresh, lighter versions of traditional Mexican foods in a colorful setting. Premium tequilas and a wide selection of Mexican beers. La Salsa Cantina offers lunch and dinner starting at 11 a.m.
Bread Sommeliers, a new conceit: Who thinks up these things? Panera bakeries and Food Network's Tyler Florence have dubbed aficionados of artisan breads "bread sommeliers," saying this upper-crust set "thumbs their noses at chefs serving sub-par loaves with five-star meals." Get real, people. I like a laugh as well as anyone, but mine came from the idea of a five-star eatery serving "sub-par" bread. Now that's funny!
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