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Thursday, March 1, 2018 | 2 a.m.
Chemical exfoliants vs. physical exfoliants
Physical exfoliants, such as grainy scrubs and cleansing brushes, can be a handy tool to combat skin flakes, but they come with risks too. Even gentle scrubs can cause micro tears in the skin, leading to irritation. Chemical exfoliants, such as AHAs and BHAs, tend to be more effective and exfoliate the skin more evenly. While chemical exfoliants come with risks as well, they’re generally easier on the skin than physical scrubbing.
Who should be using acid-based skin care?
Because there are so many effective acids and methods of delivery, anyone can benefit from including acid into their skin-care regimen. However, if you’re new to acids, do your research.
Talk to your doctor or dermatologist about what acids will be best for your concerns and introduce them to your skin slowly until you know how you’ll react. Always follow the use-directions on the label and never mix acid-based products unless you know what you’re doing. This is especially important if you’re using AHAs/BHAs with vitamin C—it’s best to use the two separately.
Where can I find them?
In addition to the acids above, there are many more on the market. From luxury brands to drugstore options, you’ll likely see the active acid mentioned in the product description on the container. Further, when you see terms like “renewing,” “resurfacing,” and “brightening,” there’s a likely a chemical exfoliating agent in the product.
From cleansers to toners to serums and beyond, acid-based skin products are everywhere. While potent acid treatments, such as chemical peels, were once strictly reserved for the dermatologist’s office, many of the acids available in consumer products today are far more user-friendly and tailored to suit a wide range of skin concerns. But with new formulations popping up regularly, and ingredient lists akin to something you might find in a chemistry lab, it can be difficult to know what acids are right for you. Here’s a beginner’s guide to skin-care acids.
The basics
Most acids found in skin care products are exfoliants that fall under two umbrellas: alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). Both of these hydroxy acids work by breaking down the top layer of dead skin cells—encouraging cell turnover and leaving the complexion with a clean, smooth slate of fresh skin.
Why is this important?
The American Chemical Society reports that the average person naturally sheds about 500 million skin cells every day, at a rate of .001-.003 ounces of skin each hour. Within 2-4 weeks, humans shed their entire outer layer of skin. The body is designed to be in a constant state of renewal: skin cells are created, die, shed and are replaced with new ones. So if the body is naturally doing this anyway, why should we be exfoliating? In short, to expedite and encourage the process.
Skin cell turnover slows with time, typically as a result of aging and genetics. Changes in turnover also can be aggravated by lifestyle factors, such as unprotected sun exposure. A buildup of dead skin cells can cause problems, including dull skin, clogged and enlarged pores, acne, wrinkles and loss of firmness/elasticity.
Types of skin-care acids
AHAs
AHAs are naturally derived, water-soluble acids that work on the skin’s surface to break down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together.
• Conditions best for: AHAs can address just about any skin concern, including anti-aging, fine lines, tone/texture, hyper-pigmentation and blemishes.
• Skin types best for: They’re ideal for normal, dry, dehydrated and sun-damaged skin because they’re able to exfoliate and improve skin moisture.
Types of AHAs include:
• Glycolic acid: Often cited as the most powerful of all AHAs, the molecules that comprise glycolic acid are very small, allowing it to penetrate skin more deeply. Be aware: People with sensitive skin should be careful with glycolic acid because it can be more irritating than other AHAs.
• Lactic acid: More gentle than glycolic acid and derived from milk, lactic acid exfoliates while increasing moisture levels of the skin. Ideal for: It’s preferred for normal to sensitive skin.
• Mandelic acid: Toting the largest molecule of the AHAs, it penetrates the skin more slowly and with less irritation. Ideal for: Mandelic acid is great for people who are just getting into acid-based skin care. It’s especially helpful for darker skin and sensitive/acne-prone skin types.
BHAs
BHAs are similar to AHAs, but they’re oil soluble, allowing them to penetrate more deeply into the skin and pores.
• Conditions best for: Treating blackheads, whiteheads and even ingrown hairs.
• Skin types best for: They’re preferred for people with oily and/or acne-prone skin.
The most popular BHA is salicylic acid. In the world of skin care, it's the only BHA you need to know. Renowned for treating acne, it’s anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory and sloughs away pore-clogging dead skin cells. It can be used as an all-over treatment or as a spot treatment to concentrate on troubled areas (such as blackheads or the occasional pimple). Ideal for: Everyone. But best for those with oily and acne-prone skin.
Others
• Hyaluronic acid: Unlike other acids, hyaluronic acid doesn’t exfoliate, it moisturizes—and it’s a miraculous moisturizer at that. A powerful humectant, meaning it binds and draws moisture to the skin, hyaluronic acid is able to hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water. It can be used topically, found in serums and creams, taken orally, or injected into the skin as a plumping treatment—the large majority of all injectable “fillers” use hyaluronic acid. It hydrates, plumps and smooths the skin.
Conditions best for: Everyone, especially those with dehydrated or mature skin types. Ideal for: Everyone.
• Vitamin C: Also labeled as ascorbic acid or L-ascorbic acid, vitamin C is an antioxidant that can work wonders on the skin. Known for its ability to brighten and fade dark spots, it can also repair free-radical damage, making it an important ingredient for anti-aging products. Ideal for: Everyone. Best for individuals concerned about free-radical damage and skin discoloration.
This story originally appeared in the Las Vegas Weekly.
