Las Vegas Sun

January 17, 2018

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Counter Intelligence: Made L.V., Wolfgang Puck, Luciano Pellegrini, Max Jacobson


Los Caraballo

Buddy Valastro, Lisa Valastro, Elizabeth Blau and Kim Canteenwalla at Buddy V’s Ristorante in Palazzo on Sunday, Oct. 6, 2013.

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Made L.V. owners Kim Canteenwalla and Elizabeth Blau.

Hot off the grill!

It’s an unusual name for a restaurant, but Made L.V. describes how it was “hand made” with Las Vegas solely in mind. It’s the newest creation officially opened this week from the husband-and-wife restaurant team of Kim Canteenwalla and Elizabeth Blau. They created the successful Honey Salt that’s less than a mile away, but the two are different.

This modern, 216-seat tavern located in Bradley Ogden’s former space at Tivoli Village is a casual spot with multiple patio areas, a fire pit and outdoor television. Sports fans will love the multiple televisions throughout the new restaurant right on time for NFL and college football season.

But it’s the collection of arcade games, including Pac-Man and retro board games, that will have people interacting. Kim describes chef Daniel Boling’s dishes as “elevated bar food that’s also healthy farm inspired.” Daniel was at the Lodge at Torrey Pines in La Jolla, Calif., so I’m familiar with his great kitchen skills.

Check out his beer-steamed clams with chicken chorizo, red potatoes and the deviled eggs with thick-cut bacon and red onion jam. His smoked ham hock nachos come with cowboy beans, Anaheim peppers, roasted tomatoes, pale ale queso and charred scallions. Inside jars, you will find lentil and chicken hummus and chopped chicken liver mousse.

It’s a perfect suburban hangout spot that comes complete with a modern jukebox. Happy Hour is 4 to 6 p.m. Mondays through Fridays, with dinner from 4 to 11 p.m. Lunch is Wednesday through Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. with additional days and a Sunday brunch to be added shortly.

Wolfgang Puck Book Signing at Spago

Wolfgang Puck signs copies of his newly released cookbook Launch slideshow »

WOLF’S FIRST SUBURBAN GRILL: Celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck plans to open his Bar & Grill, his seventh in Las Vegas but the first off-Strip, in downtown Summerlin next month. Mark Andelbradt will jump from Wolf’s Postrio at the Venetian to be its executive chef, and Cheryl Mahar, who was at Wolf’s original Spago for six years, returns to the dining group as the GM.

Mark, who held high positions in the New York kitchens of “Top Chef” culinary stars Daniel Boulud and Masaharu Morimoto, said: “It’s exciting to be a part of Wolfgang’s first off-Strip restaurant in Las Vegas. This is now home for my family, and I’m really looking forward to becoming even further rooted in the community with this great neighborhood restaurant.”

Cheryl, who hails from Colorado, began her managerial experience at Spago Las Vegas in the Forum Shops at Caesars. She said: “I’m looking so forward to rejoining the Wolfgang Puck family. It was tremendously rewarding to be a part of Wolfgang’s first Las Vegas venture when I was with Spago in the early ’90s. Now I have the opportunity to become a part of Wolfgang’s history again with the opening of our first Las Vegas neighborhood restaurant.”

CULINARY FEAST: The best chefs of our town have joined forces with water and liquor brands for this weekend’s two-night Wine and Food Festival at Red Rock Resort for its third year. We’ll get advance taste treats from chef Brian Massie’s Hearthstone opening next month at Red Rock and chef Tony Hu’s Lao Sze Chuan opening next week at the Palms.

Other food-extravaganza participants include Mastro’s Ocean Club Las Vegas, Aureole Las Vegas, Roy’s Las Vegas, The Capital Grille Las Vegas, Tao, BLT Burger, Todd English P.U.B., Lavo, Cantina Laredo, Popcorn Girl, Scarpetta Las Vegas, Terra Rosa, Caesars Palace, Academia Barilla, Island Sushi and Grill, Zenshin Asian Restaurant, Firefly Tapas Kitchen, Monta Ramen, Origin India, Bachi Burger, Maggiano’s Little Italy Las Vegas, STK Las Vegas, The Light Group, N9NE Steakhouse, Ferraro’s, T Bones, Sauced, D.J. Seals Catering, District One, Marsatta Fancy Chocolates, Orleans Arena, Haute Sweets Patisserie, Ellis Island, Redneck Tapas, Nove Italiano, Sushi Samba, Gordon Biersch, Crave, Smith & Wollensky Steakhouse, Simon Restaurant and Lounge, Sugar and Spyked.

It’s the finest of cuisines and spirits that our city can serve up thanks to support from Patron and Stoli. Details and to purchase tickets: Proceeds benefit the James Beard Foundation honoring America’s culinary heritage through programs that have educated and inspired since 1966.

Truffle Delights at Valentino

Truffle delights at Valentino in the Venetian. Launch slideshow »

NEW MENU FROM NEW CONSULTANT: When Luciano Pellegrini closed his Valentino at the Venetian nearly a year ago when owner Pierro Selvaggio decided not to sign a new rent-increased agreement, the Italian chef launched a dessert project featuring his home country’s sorbets and gelatos.

Dolce Vita Gelato has become an overnight success story serving scoops to restaurants all over the valley. One of those was Marche Bacchus, the beautiful wine store and eatery on the tranquil jewel of a lake at Desert Shores.

Owners Jeff and Rhonda Wyatt were customers but somehow persuaded Luciano to find time to also return to their kitchen in his off hours as a consultant. He’s created a new Mediterranean menu for executive chef Jose Aleman based on the couple’s food adventures in Europe. Rhonda told me: “We are not turning our back on our French traditions, but we’re adding six homemade pastas and other taste treats from cuisines of the sun we discovered.”

James Beard Award winner Luciano, who was born in the ancient hilltop town of Bergamo where San Pellegrino water is bottled, is continuing by day with his desserts fulfilling orders for everybody from Tao to Caesars Palace and Lavo to the Linq. Cool by day and hot by night and weekends, you’ll now find him back on the grill after his one-year self-imposed break, and you can enjoy his cooling treats after his new “cuisines of the sun” Italian and French masterpieces.

Chefs to the Max at Rx Boiler Room

Chefs to the Max, a fundraising dinner for food critic Max Jacobson, at Rx Boiler Room on Sunday, Jan. 19, 2014, in Mandalay Place. Launch slideshow »

GOOD NEWS: Las Vegas food writer Max Jacobson is on the mend from horrific brain injuries when he was hit by a car in December after leaving his gym. Friends and chefs have pitched in to help with the burgeoning medical bills and his rehabilitation in Colorado and Nebraska.

Pal and fellow food critic Al Mancini says his recovery has been remarkable: “He is walking and dining out once again as his speech continues to improve.” A new Chefs to the Max dinner — the third benefit — is planned for Sept. 28 at Kerry Simon’s downtown Carson Kitchen — and Max and his wife, Setu, hope to be well enough to attend the fundraiser.

TV DEBUT: Planet Hollywood founder and Las Vegas hotelier Robert Earl will premiere his Cooking Channel show “Be My Guest” next Monday. Robert, who owns Buca di Beppo, goes on a culinary quest with celebrities and star chefs to uncover hidden food gems on the 13-episode series. We’ll post our interview with Robert about his new delicious finds next week.

Robin Leach has been a journalist for more than 50 years and has spent the past decade giving readers the inside scoop on Las Vegas, the world’s premier platinum playground.

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