Friday, March 21, 1997 | 11:59 a.m.
TAKING RISKS is nothing new for award-winning filmmaker Francis Ford Coppola. It's the nature of his profession.
For almost 30 years as a director, writer and producer, he's managed to please the public and the money men with his innovative films. One of the most successful, "The Godfather," will be re-released shortly in celebration of its 25th anniversary.
It was the tremendous success of "The Godfather" that gave Coppola the means to purchase a historic winery and vineyard, Inglenook, in Napa Valley, Calif. His first land purchase in 1975 included almost 2,000 acres and the house built in 1879 by the original owner, Gustave Niebaum, a Finnish sea captain. Eventually, Coppola acquired all of the Niebaum estate and now lives and works there.
Making wine for profit is as risky as making films, yet Coppola has won acclaim and found fulfillment in both.
During a visit here this week, he hosted a dinner and wine-tasting at Napa in the Rio hotel-casino, where he premiered the 1992 vintage of the Niebaum-Coppola Estate Winery flagship wine, Rubicon. Guests tasted a number of Niebaum-Coppolla wines during dinner, including the 1994 Edizone Pennino zinfandel named for his maternal grandfather. The wine label bears the likeness of his grandfather, who left Naples for America in 1905, the logo of his music publishing company and photographs of the Bay of Naples and the Statue of Liberty -- his last view of Italy and the first of his new home.
Coppola is a gracious, warm man. He wandered the restaurant chatting with diners and was available for interviews.
Napa Chef Jean-Louis Palladin designed the dinner to go with the wines. A salad of warm root vegetables and Santa Barbara shrimp was dressed with a soup-like emulsion made with Maine lobster coral. With it was the 1995 Francis Coppola Family Voignier (vee-yohn-yay). It's doubtful you'll find any of this trendy, mellow vintage for sale. The Voignier is usually reserved for the family. Most of the half-acre devoted to Voignier is added to the estate's Chardonnay. Only 1,200 bottles a year of the Voignier are produced.
Other Francis Coppola Family wines are easier to find. Most are less than $25. Included under the label are a Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
The Pennino Zinfandel accompanied a ravioli filled with fresh foie gras. The fruity, spicy wine was a fine counterpoint to the rich foie gras.
Two Rubicon vintages, 1982 and 1992, gave the opportunity to taste premium wines made by two different winemakers. Niebaum-Coppola winemaker Scott McLeod described the 1992 Rubicon as one that "will age gracefully into the next millennium." It's wonderfully drinkable right now. Interest in the wines was so intense the food -- loin of lamb with porcini mushrooms -- became secondary.
Magnums of the 1982 Rubicon were poured so the wines could be tasted side-by-side. Nothing inspires more spirited conversation than a tasting of two fine wines. We sipped and swirled and commented, enjoying every wonderful moment as the 1982 expended and developed with each taste. Robust and full-flavored with a superb aftertaste, it is a wine enthusiast's ideal.
An herbed Brie sandwiched with black truffles and mascarpone cheese was a good companion.
During dinner, Coppola and his wife, Eleanor, spoke about the winery and their enviable life in Napa. Winemaker McLeod found working with Coppola good and "interesting."
It should become even more interesting when the filmmaker's latest project is completed -- a multimillion dollar showcase of his achievements and those of the estate's founder and wine pioneer, Gustave Niebaum. The Napa wine and film museum is expected to be completed in October. Meanwhile, visitors to Napa can sample the Niebaum-Coppola wines in the winery's tasting room. The winery is located on Highway 29, in Rutherford.
More Niebaum-Coppola
It's not easy to find Niebaum-Coppola wines locally. Demand is great, allocations are small. Except for Spirits Plus on West Flamingo Road and in Green Valley, none of the four wine shops called had the Rubicon or any of the other Niebaum-Coppola wines.
Spirits Plus has Rubicon 1984 through 1989 for $40-$45 per bottle. It also has the 1992 Rubicon for $49.99. It expects a shipment soon of other Rubicon vintages. Call 873-6000 for additional information.
The Rio wine cellar has the Pennino 1994 zinfandel, $24 per bottle, $12 by the glass. A bottle of the Rubicon 1992 is $45, by the glass $15. Niebaum-Coppola wines are available by the glass in Napa.
A call to the Rio wine cellar or to wine authority Barrie Larvin will get you additional information about the availability of the other Niebaum-Coppola wines. According to Larvin, they come and go quickly, but are replaced regularly. Call 252-7777.
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