Friday, Dec. 19, 2003 | 9:33 a.m.
Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or [email protected].
Today's column will be a mix of many ingredients. I'll be away for the holidays and will return the first week of the new year. Meanwhile the pile of papers continues to grow as if it has a life of its own, the cookbooks that I reviewed recently are still an obstacle course under my feet, and yet I flourish among the madness of keeping up with this "new" Las Vegas.
Every now and then a reminder comes along that I didn't imagine the kinder, gentler pace of Old Las Vegas. Tuesday at Caesars Palace, Claudine Williams (Nevada's leading lady of gaming) was honored as a "Legend of the Industry" during the 20th annual Governor's Conference on Tourism.
It's a rare banquet that inspires such warmth and even a few tears, but this exceptional woman has lived a distinguished life by following a philosophy of love and kindness to all fortunate enough to fall into her embrace.
It is not possible to name all of the many friends and colleagues who paid tribute to Williams' special virtues, including her business acumen. Among those paying tribute were Gov. Kenny Guinn, Caesars Palace President Mark Juliano and Lt. Gov. Lorraine Hunt, who provided the lovely running commentary.
Hunt shares a special kinship with Williams. It was a remarkable love fest for a remarkable female.
What's more, it was an event so well orchestrated that it began and ended at the promised times. All this and a dinner that had everyone talking; it was that good. Banquet meals are notoriously unreliable because so many programs run on and on while the food awaiting in the kitchen shrivels up and dies.
Our food was imaginative, delicious and hot when it should have been. An entree of filet of beef with a port wine sauce and grilled shrimp was perfect. Each small filet was pink throughout, the sauce was offered by the server so that those who preferred their beef dry could have it that way and the winter vegetable ragu and the potato gratin were savory accompaniments.
A dessert dubbed "Legend of the Industry" was a show-stopper. Topping it all was Maxine, our server, who is just the kind of person that Williams has spent a lifetime mentoring and encouraging to reach her potential.
Holiday helper, wine by the box: Until I tasted Black Box wines from Napa Valley and Sonoma County, and Banrock and Hardys wines from Australia, I would have laughed at the thought of boxed wines, even for casual events. But these are no ordinary boxed wines.
Not only are the wines a pleasure to drink, high-tech packaging keeps them fresh and drinkable until the last sip. Pacific Wine Partners, which piqued my interest, says the advent of these wines signifies a new trend -- premium boxed wines that provide an accessible way to drink wine while taking away some of the ceremony and intimidation of wine.
Here's what I tasted: Black Box Napa Valley 2002 Chardonnay, Hardys Shiraz and Banrock Station's 2002 Merlot. The Black Box Chardonnay is $25 and is the equivalent of three 750 ML bottles at $6.25 per bottle. The three-liter Hardys Shiraz is $16 ($4 per bottle) and the Banrock Merlot is $16 ($4 per bottle).
The wines are enclosed in a special pouch that is airtight and prevents oxidation, but check the box carefully. The Australian boxes have a tendency to pop open, and trying to get the wine pouch back into the box can be tricky. The Black Box Chardonnay was perfect -- no popped ends, easy to handle -- and would make a terrific gift. Look for these wines in supermarkets' wine departments and popular wine stores. All of them are more than drinkable.
Holiday dinners
Commander's Palace at Desert Passage at the Aladdin will offer a classic Revillon menu through Tuesday. Le Revillon ("the awakening") is an age-old Creole and Cajun custom of families reuniting and sharing and giving thanks.
Why a Revillon dinner?
"We wanted to bring the New Orleans tradition of a Creole Christmas to Las Vegas for the holidays," said Commander's Palace Managing Partner Brad Brennan.
Le Revillon's menu is masterfully prepared by CP Executive Chef Carlos Guia. Featured are a selection of dishes that make up a three-course meal including an appetizer, entree and dessert. Selected wines are available by the glass. Among the entree selections are cassoulet with Muscovy duck confit, house-made, garlic-lamb sausage and smoked beef tenderloin stewed in a white bean ragout or roasted gulf red snapper served over a fricassee of chanterelle mushrooms and fingerling potatoes.
Commander's rich Creole cream cheesecake drizzled with caramel sauce and topped with a lattice of chocolate is the finishing touch. For dining times and reservations, call 892-8272.
Christmas at Fiamma Trattoria will be celebrated with a price-fixed "Taste of Christmas" menu for $65 per person. Included are a salad of Maine lobster and artichoke, black truffle and roasted duck risotto with duck crackling, braised beef short ribs with celery root puree and chocolate tarts. The regular menu is also available. Christmas service will be from 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Reservations suggested. For information about the New Year's Eve menu, call 891-3919.
Strolling Christmas Carolers will enhance holiday dinners at Lawry's The Prime Rib in the Howard Hughes Center. Through Christmas Eve, Victorian-costumed carolers will perform during dinner service from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. On Christmas Eve, Lawry's opens at 4 p.m. Reservations are required. On New Year's Eve, the restaurant will be open its usual hours -- 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. The primary menu will be offered and all guests will receive party favors and a champagne toast to welcome in the New Year. Call 893-2223 for reservations.
Paris Las Vegas will feature holiday fare in most of its restaurants Christmas Day, including Le Provencal, with service from 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. ($25 per person). Les Artistes' hours are 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. and Le Village Buffet offers holiday dining 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. ($24.95 per person). Choose from a grand selection of traditional holiday foods. Make a reservation wherever possible.
Hot Rod Grille at 1231 American Pacific Drive in Henderson will celebrate its first New Year's with a variety of dining and entertainment options. A special menu is planned for New Year's Eve from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. To learn more, call 567-5659.
Dine at any Sam's Town restaurant and stroll through Mystic Falls Park, which is aglow with holiday cheer and festive decorations. I love this indoor, climate-controlled park with its special effects and imaginative combination of real and faux flora. The fauna is also pretty neat. A new addition to the daily shows at 2 p.m., 6 p.m., 8 p.m. and 10 p.m. is "Big Sam," an animatronic bear that makes his home on Mystic Falls Park mountain.
I certainly hope he doesn't meet up with my favorite wolf which lives atop the mountain amid all the wonderful special effects. For more information call 456-7777.
Marie's Wedding Cakes on West Sahara near David's Bridal Shop has new owners and a delicious array of holiday baked goods. Owned by Todd Philbrook, a native Las Vegan who was for a number of years a bakery instructor at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., and Marisa Nivatvongs, who also makes luscious cakes, the small bakery is a welcome addition. My sweet tooth appreciated the selection of pastries, cookies and cakes. Try the mousse combinations. They're delish. Call 367-1065 to learn what they'll be baking up for Christmas and New Year's.
Bears make their mark during the holidays: Don't miss the abundance of bears on display at the Four Seasons hotel at Mandalay Bay. Such lovely bruins. You'll want to take them home, but don't. They're for everyone to enjoy.
Bear Tea at Ritz-Carlton, Lake Las Vegas: Today, Saturday and Sunday in the Firenze Lounge the festive Teddy Bear Tea is a tradition at nearly every Ritz-Carlton. At Ritz-Carlton, Lake Las Vegas, there are two seatings -- noon and 3 p.m. For the young and the young at heart, this lovely holiday treat includes tea, hot chocolate, kid's finger sandwiches, scones and French pastries.
Enjoy piano melodies for youngsters and a visit with Ted E. Bear, a very important Ritz-Carlton dignitary. Mr. Bear will share story time, a gift and a holiday carol with participating children. Tea price is $25 per adult; $20 per child age 12 and under. Tots under 2 get in free.
Medici Cafe and Firenze Lounge will be the setting for many festive teas, brunch and New Year's Eve festivities. It's a wonderful array of dining and celebrations. To make reservations or learn more about the Ritz-Carlton during the holidays, call 567-4700. Reservations are strongly suggested through this holiday season.
archive
