Friday, July 6, 2012 | 12:30 p.m.
- Weiss Deli and Bakery
- 2744 N. Green Valley Parkway, 454-0565. Monday-Friday, 8 a.m.-7:30 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 8 a.m.-6:30 p.m.
Finding complicated, theatrical, expensive food in Las Vegas is like finding a gas station. Finding good breakfast, on the other hand, is a challenge. There are plenty of decent places that make decent eggs and bacon the same way as everybody else, which is why Weiss Deli stands so far apart.
From the atmosphere to the snappy service, the restaurant keeps things simple (like breakfast should be). A dry erase board in the foyer announces the adventurous specials of the day (sauteed vegetable pate!), but for a sure thing, dig into Eggs Nova Scotia ($9.75).
It’s named for the hunks of smoky, velvety lox blushing through a scramble of two eggs, caramelized Bermuda onion, green onion, the salty little flavor bombs known as capers and fresh, tongue-tickling dill. The dish typically includes a swirl of Philadelphia cream cheese, but I prefer mine on the gorgeous boiled-then-baked bagel that comes on the side. The garlic is divine, though the toasted crunch of any of Weiss’ dozen bagel flavors melts into the same chewy warmth. It’s so good you could almost forget the home fries on the side, if they weren’t so awesome. Next to the greasy, bland, soggy afterthoughts I’m used to seeing next to my eggs, each bite was like a starchy hug.
It’s enough food for two, but you won’t share.