Friday, March 8, 1996 | 11:59 a.m.
THE REMARKABLE growth of Las Vegas has brought us some exciting restaurants.
Habib's Persian restaurant in the Sahara Pavilion at Sahara Avenue and Decatur Boulevard is just one fine example.
Persian cuisine, like most Middle Eastern cuisines, includes hummus, tabouli and dolmas -- stuffed grape leaves. At Habib's, it also includes fragrant combinations of spices, exotic barberries and other unusual ingredients. According to our server, Amid, Persia (Iran) has few regional specialities. Spice combinations may vary from state to state, but the cuisine nationally is generally the same.
Habib's culinary skills are outstanding. Foods are subtly spiced and seasoned, never overpowering. The tabouli salad is the best I've tasted. When I asked Amid how the chef was able to make such a commonplace staple of the Middle Eastern table so vibrant, he told me he believes that Habib sprinkles the mixture with magic dust after he prepares it. I wouldn't be surprised if this was more than just imagination. The parsley, cracked wheat, mint, tomatoes and olive oil are beautifully balanced. Scoop it up with the warm pita bread. Healthy food never tasted so good.
Habib's book-like menu begins with photographs of various dishes. A full menu follows the photographs.
Appetizers, a selection of salads (including the tabouli) and many meat and chicken kebab, fish and special dishes are offered.
All entrees are served with fragrant rice, each grain separate and delicate. One special chicken kebab includes the rice with barberries, tiny cranberry-like berries with a seductive taste both sweet and tart. Bargs are cigar-shaped rolls of flavorful beef, some are ground, some are pounded and rolled. A charred tomato comes with some entrees. Amid told us how to peel away the charred skin, mash the flesh and mix it with the rice. It was delicious.
For dessert we chose fragrant Persian ice cream flavored with rose water and studded with pistachios. With it we enjoyed Habib's special tea, his own blend of three teas. Tea is served in small glasses and accompanied with cubes of sugar. Very Old World. I had visions of my Russian grandmother sipping tea from a glass, through a sugar cube.
Habib's is open for lunch 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and dinner 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday. The same menu is in force all day. Lunch portions and prices are smaller.
Meatout happening
The Great American Meatout is upon us. Now through March 20, Meatout volunteers across the nation are holding colorful events designed to inform carnivores about the many benefits of kicking the meat habit, even for one day.
No word yet on activities locally, but if you're interested in learning more about the Meatout, call (800) MEATOUT.
Cigar dinner
Cafe Michelle West on West Sahara joins forces with Southern Wine and Spirits and the Royal Cigar Society on March 28 to present "A Night Under the Stars."
A champagne reception with Chandon Blanc de Noirs, a five-course epicurean repast presented by Chef Mario Andreoni, the wines of Simi and Ruffino, Hennessey VSOP and XO cognacs, a selection of fine cigars and a leather cigar case from Pheasant International valued at $100 are included in the all-inclusive price, $150. Space is limited.
Ticket reservations may be made by phone with a credit card. Call 873-5400. VIP tables can be reserved for parties of six or more.
Meet Cafe Michelle West Chef Andreoni at Macy's Home Store on Spring Mountain Road at 1 p.m. March 16. He'll prepare one of his original dishes and offer samples.
Short orders
* Las Bagels, 3620 W. Sahara Ave., has put cloths on the tables and has added a menu of Middle Eastern foods. Gyro sandwiches ($3.99-$4.25), shish kebab ($3.25), combination plates ($4.25-$8.95) and side dishes ($2.95-$4.25) of hummus, baba ghanouj, tabouli and stuffed grape leaves are offered.
Las Bagels is open 6:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Friday and 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Local delivery is available. Call 367-9828, or order by fax, 367-9871.
* Cowboy Steak Outs will begin at Boomtown April 5.
This is how the West was won, with grub off a chuckwagon, eaten on the open range, under the stars. OK, so the range is poolside at Boomtown, but the gorgeous desert sky and the stars are awesome, and cookin' out is how cowboys live.
Boomtown Steak Outs ($10.95) include a charbroiled 16-ounce New York steak or tequila chicken half, and spuds and roasted corn in the husk from the "hot" wagon.
Cowboy Steakouts will be served from 6-8 p.m. every Friday, Saturday and Sunday.
MURIEL STEVENS, SUN food and travel editor, keeps an eye on the Las Vegas scene. Her column appears Tuesdays and Fridays.
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