Las Vegas Sun

May 7, 2024

Columnist: Chef brings out delicacies of China at LV Hilton

GARDEN OF THE DRAGON, the Las Vegas Hilton's Chinese restaurant, has undergone a smashing redo.

The restaurant is now separated from the adjacent Benihana Village by a handsome dragon-etched glass divider, which cuts the noise level from the ongoing Benihana Village entertainment but still allows a view of the fun.

Booths and tables are strategically placed to afford privacy. The decor is serene and inviting. There are three areas: the marble entrance enhanced with blooming dogwood trees has two large booths; the middle dining area overlooking Benihana Village; and the luxurious private dining room that can accommodate up to 50. This elegant room with etched gold wall coverings, splendid wood-framed windows and large Lazy Susan tables can be divided so that as few as 10 may enjoy the privacy. The oversized round tables are ideal for easy conversation.

A recent dinner hosted in the private dining room by the hotel's vice president of food and beverage, Ken Deutsch, showed how well the private dining room works.

Many regions of China are featured on the new expanded menu -- Szechwan, Peking, Northern Mongolia and Canton. Our dinner included a cross-section of the dishes all tastefully prepared by Chef Richard Tam and his staff.

Chicken Soong is a flavorful version of minced chicken in lettuce cups; the chefs special seafood soup is a delicious melange of seafood in a delicately flavored broth; gold and silver shrimp was a yin-yang presentation of deep-fried shrimp and shrimp sauteed in a light garlic-ginger sauce. Many of the dishes served at the dinner are not on the menu, but may be requested in advance. Call ahead and talk to maitre d' Waylen Fong. Time permitting, he will happily oblige.

Orange beef in a nest of noodles ($15.95) was a personal favorite -- pieces of tender beef are sauteed in a zesty vinegar-flavored orange sauce and beautifully presented in the crisp nest. Preparation of spicy salt-and-pepper pork chops ($13.95) includes removing the meat from the bone, cutting it into small pieces, then sauteing them with chili, bell peppers and onions until crisp. There are also the sweet-and-sour filet of fish; a wonderful lightly curried vegetable dish, alas not on the menu; and an interesting Folk Jen fried rice.

Dessert was a refreshing, delicious cold soup of honeydew melon thickened with tapioca.

Dragon's menu is filled with Asian delights priced from $5 for egg rolls to market price for fresh seafood. Many of the entree dishes are well under $20. Family-style dinners for two or more diners ($20.50 and $25.50 per person) include appetizers, soup, entrees, fried rice and dessert.

Garden of the Dragon serves dinner 6-11 p.m. Reservations are suggested. Call 732-5111.

Magic at Caesars

Before you can say abracadabra, Caesars Magical Empire will be open (June 18).

The magic-themed entertainment complex features multi-chambered dining and all the mystery and grand-scale illusions the masterminds behind the concept can conjure up. Featured are 10 "dining chambers of the gods," Sultan's Palace Theatre, Secret Pagoda Theatre, Grotto Bar, Spirit Bar, Forbidden Crypt, Sanctorum Secorum Rotunda and Caesars Magical Empire Store.

Guests will begin their adventure at the Celestial Court box office, then follow the path to the Celestial Clock, which heralds their entrance into the Chamber of Destiny. It is there that visitors are told the story of Caesars Magical Empire and experience an "environmental illusion" that transports them into a mysterious catacomb maze.

Greeting guests are Caesars Magical Empire Centurions who guide them to a dining chamber (each seats 24 people; each is named for a Roman god). During the three-course repast entertainment will be provided by a wizard. Since illusion is master of the Magical Empire things will rarely be what they appear to be -- during meals and throughout the experience strange and wonderful happenings will take place.

All meals include salad, a choice of entree, glass of wine or soft drink, dessert and coffee or tea. After lunch ($45 or $50) or dinner ($65, $70 or $75, depending on day and time of reservation), more wizardry will take place as guests are guided through the mysterious Empire. Two live-entertainment theaters will showcase the talents of master magicians. Watch out for the Spirit Bar with its resident poltergeist, Maximus Maven, who looks suspiciously like the world-renowned mentalist Max Maven.

Magical Empire ticket prices exclude gratuity and a $2.50 handling charge. For ticket information and reservations, call 731-7333.

Short orders

* The setting for the Flamingo Hilton's "Luau Under the Stars" starting Saturday ($25.95, plus tax and tip) will be the lush Caribbean-style gardens behind the hotel. This Hawaiian all-you-can-eat feast, offered from 6:30-10 p.m., includes such traditional luau specialities as suckling pig, Huli-Huli chicken, teriyaki steak and baked mahi-mahi; authentic hula dancers, native fire twirlers and a band will entertain. Also included are free tropical shirts and Hawaiian leis. Tickets are on sale at the box office in the lobby. Call 733-3333 for more information.

* Nicky Blair's on Paradise Road opens to the public May 29 with an Italian menu, late-night food in the bar and many special features.

* Sheraton Desert Inn Executive Chef Michael Ty has left his position to pursue private interests and to spend more time with his family. Ty, an award-winning chef, is president of the American Culinary Federation's national chapter and vice president of the Fraternity of Executive Chefs of Las Vegas. He is also president of Hospitality Culinaire Inc. of Las Vegas, a family-owned Foodservice business.

* Las Bagels on West Sahara Avenue at Valley View Boulevard is now offering a bagel card. Make any purchase in the bakery/deli and get your card stamped. Eleven purchases gets you a free dozen bagels. A sandwich card is also available in the restaurant. The 12th sandwich is free.

* Arnauld Briand formerly of the Palace Court at Caesars Palace and most recently the Rainbow Room at Rockefeller Center is the new executive chef at the Sheraton Desert Inn. Briand brings with him a wealth of knowledge and talent.

* Treasure Island's new Chinese restaurant, Madam Ching's, honors the memory of one of the greatest female pirates in history. Madam Ching was never defeated, not even by the rival pirate chief she married. Madam Ching's menu includes classic and new lighter Chinese specialities such as spring rolls, which are not fried. Madam Ching's serves dinner Wednesday-Sunday.

* Texas Station has replaced the award-winning Rio Grande Buffet with the larger, new Market Street Buffet, but has kept many of the Rio Grande's most popular specialities, including the Texas deep-pit barbecue. Market Street offers a sizzling fajita station, Viva Salsa Bar, Panhandle Pasta Co., Pizza on the Prairie and the Shanghai Noodle and Barbecue Factory. Breakfast ($3.95), lunch ($5.95), dinner ($7.95) and weekend champagne brunch are served. Youngsters 3 and under dine free.

* The Tropicana has added a buffet to its popular Papagayo's Mexican restaurant. Buffet Ole ($6.95), served daily from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., includes a variety of Mexican dishes (tacos, steak picado, tamales, chile verde and more), a salad bar and such Mexican desserts as flan.

* The Santa Fe hotel-casino will offer a Memorial Day barbecue and fish fry Sunday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. in the Santa Fe Ballroom. Included for $6.95 per person are rib-eye steaks, chicken, Philly steak sandwiches, hamburgers, hot dogs, chili dogs, fried catfish and cod, corn-on-the-cob, salads, watermelon, ice cream and apple pie.

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