'You say Tomato' a nifty primer of 'love apples'

Muriel Stevens

It doesn't matter how you say it, "You Say Tomato" by Joanne Weir (Broadway Books, $15 is a terrific book about tomatoes.

The history of the tomato most of us take for granted, is a fascinating one. The first tomatoes brought to Europe were yellow, just like the premium-priced yellow tomatoes we buy today in fancy produce sections.

Whatever you call it (love apple is one name), tomatoes are a staple in American kitchens.

Weir first entertains us with an "Ode to Tomatoes" by Pablo Neruda. Lovely stuff.

The history of the fruit, now legally classified as a vegetable; tomato techniques and other basic information and a smashing collection of recipes makes for interesting reading and cooking.

My personal favorite tip is how to make "tomato dust" from tomato peelings. The skins are placed on a baking sheet in a single layer then baked in a 200 degree oven until completely dry -- about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Then pulverized to a fine powder in a spice grinder or blender. The dust can be used to enhance the flavor of fresh pasta dough, or added to vinaigrettes, sauces and soups.

Here are a few more recipes from "You Say Tomato."

Peak-Season Tomato Sauce

Makes about 4 cups

4 lbs ripe plum tomatoes, cored and halve

1 small red onion

6 garlic cloves, halved

3 sprigs fresh basil

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place the tomatoes, onion, garlic, basil, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a large pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes collapse, about 15 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the sauce is thick, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

Pass the sauce through a food mill fitted with the finest blade. Season to taste with salt and pepper if necessary.

This sauce can be refrigerated for 1 week or frozen for 2 months.

Grilled Bread with Tomatoes and Olive Oil

Serves 6

2 garlic cloves

Coarse salt

1/4 c. extra virgin olive oil

Twelve 3/4-inch-thick slices country-style bread

6 very ripe red tomatoes, halved

Freshly ground black pepper

*Optional garnish, choose one or a combination

1/2 c. green Spanish olives

12 anchovy fillets, soaked in cold water for 10 minutes, drained, and patted dry

6 paper-thin slices Spanish ham or prosciutto

12 paper-thin slices Manchego

Preheat the broiler or an outdoor grill.

In a mortar and pestle, mash the garlic with a pinch of salt. Mix in the oil.

Broil or grill the bread until golden brown. Cup a tomato half in your palm, rub both sides of one toast with the tomato, squeezing slightly as you go to leave the pulp, seeds, and juice. Repeat with the remaining tomatoes and toasts.

Drizzle the olive oil over one side of the toasts and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Serve immediately, with the optional garnishes, if desired.

Panzanella: Tuscan Bread Salad

Serves 6

1/2 lb coarse-textured bread, 3 to 4 days old, cut into 1-inch slices

1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded, and diced

Coarse salt

3 medium ripe red tomatoes, seeded and diced

2 medium ripe yellow tomatoes, seeded and diced

1 medium red onion, diced

1/2 c. lightly packed fresh basil leaves

1/4 c. plus 1 Tbs red wine vinegar

2 garlic cloves, minced

1/3 c. extra virgin olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

Sprinkle the bread with 1/2 cup water and let sit for about 2 minutes. Carefully squeeze the bread dry. Tear it into rough 1-inch pieces and let drain on paper towels for 20 minutes.

In the meantime, spread the cucumber in a single layer on paper towels. Sprinkle with salt and let drain for 20 minutes.

Place the cucumbers in a colander, run cold water over them for a moment, drain them, and dry on clean paper towels.

In a large bowl, combine the cucumber, tomatoes, and onion. Tear the basil into 1/2-inch pieces and add to the vegetables. Add the bread and toss carefully.

In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, garlic, and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper.

Carefully toss the vegetables and bread with the vinaigrette and let sit for 20 minutes. Place on a platter and serve.

Steaks with Charred Tomato Salad

Serves 6

8 medium ripe red tomatoes

1/2 c. chopped fresh basil, plus 20 basil leaves, thinly sliced

1/4 c. extra virgin olive oil

1 small red onion, thinly sliced

3 Tbs red wine vinegar

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 small market (rib-eye), porterhouse, or strip steaks (8 to 10 ounces each)

Cut the tomatoes crosswise in half and scoop out all of the seeds. Place the tomatoes cut side down on paper towels and let drain for 1 hour.

In a small saucepan, combine the chopped basil and olive oil. Heat over low heat just until the oil sizzles. Remove from the heat and let sit for 1 hour. Strain and discard the basil. (The oil can be made up to 1 day in advance.)

Preheat an outdoor grill.

Brush the cut sides of the tomatoes with 2 tablespoons of the basil oil. Place cut side down on the grill, 3 inches from the heat source, and grill until the flesh blackens, 4 to 5 minutes. Turn the tomatoes and char on the other side, about 1 minute.

Cut the tomatoes into 1-inch chunks and place in a bowl. Add the remaining basil oil, the red onion, vinegar, and thinly sliced basil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Oil the steaks and grill on one side until lightly browned, 4 to 5 minutes. Turn the steaks, season with salt and pepper, and continue to cook until medium rare, 4 to 5 minutes.

Remove the steaks from the grill and place on individual plates. Top with the charred tomato salad and serve immediately.

When Tasting Tomatoes

There are three things to note when tasting tomatoes -- fragrance, taste, and texture. Is the aroma sweet, earthy, or sharp, musty or fresh? Is the taste sweet and/or sour? What is the aftertaste like? Is the texture firm or soft, mealy or juicy, or gelatinous? Is the skin thick or thin?

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