Columnist Muriel Stevens: Spago on top of out-of-towners' to-do lists

ASK VISITING guests where they would like to dine and chances are the answer is Spago.

Owner Wolfgang Puck's excellent California-style menus and high quality food have made Spago a major attraction in Las Vegas since it opened in the Forum Shops five years ago.

The Las Vegas Spago is well-known for its consideration of local diners. General manager/partner Tom Kaplan and chef/partner David Robins are firmly entrenched in our community and give generous support to many local charities. The talented duo also oversee Puck's new restaurant in the Forum Shops, Chinois.

Menus change daily at Spago. Some of the longtime favorites, such as the roasted chicken, are usually offered, but there are always new seasonal dishes.

My recent guests were caught up with the energy of the dining room. "What a place to people watch," my observant nephew said. He was right. We made a fine game out of guessing the occupations of some of the trendy-garbed diners.

I also learned how convenient Spago and the Forum Shops can be for the physically challenged. My nephew has been in a wheelchair for some time. He had no problem making his way in the restaurant or through the Forum Shops.

There are always so many appealing choices on Spago's menu that it takes a while to order. Among the day's innovative offerings was a portobella mushroom soup with leeks, crisp shallots and roasted garlic croutons ($8). The earthy, rich soup was delicious. Salads ($11-$15) range from a zesty mix of field greens to more exotic salads that include Hawaiian tuna sashimi or pan-seared skate or sauteed foie gras served with toasted brioche and warm cherries. One day I plan to dine just on the salads and desserts.

Spago's kitchen is expert at preparing fish. Each of our choices was delicious. My steamed halibut ($23.50) with French lentils, artichoke hearts and a whole grain mustard sauce was outstanding. Our server told me that the mustard sauce was so good, he wished the kitchen would serve it as a soup. I'm not so certain the pungent sauce would make a good soup, but as a sauce it was wonderful.

A generous twist of linguini ($22.50) sauced with sun dried tomatoes, fennel and white beans was surrounded by plump sea scallops. Pan seared salmon ($25) was served with spinach risotto and lemon creme fraiche.

Portions are generous. I often share one of the salads or entrees in order to justify ordering one of pastry chef Mary Bergin's scrumptious desserts. It's a harmless bit of self-deception.

Every Spago meal includes a basket of the house baked breads. The cracker bread is so good. The assortment of breads changes too, but the cracker bread is a constant.

For casual dining, the lower priced cafe is a good bet. Open throughout the day, the cafe offers Spago's winning pastas, salads, sandwiches, entrees and desserts. Reservations are not accepted for the cafe but are requested for the dining room.

Doing lunch

I don't get much time to do lunch, especially since the advent of my new shopping column. I'm not adverse to fast foods as long as they are tasty, prepared with good ingredients and reasonably healthy. The wrong choices in a fast food outlet can blow a whole day's calories and then some. Here's some I've enjoyed recently:

Port of Subs makes a decent 5-inch sandwich that's more than enough for a light meal. Priced at around $3 with tax, the turkey and cheese on whole wheat that I ordered included a variety of toppings. I chose tomato, lettuce, onions and mustard. The ingredients were fresh; the young man who made my sandwich had clean hands and nails and the shop was spotless. The one I go to is in the Smith's Food King Shopping Center at Rancho and Charleston.

Fatburger makes a good turkey burger on a whole wheat bun. Order the bun dry and stay away from the dressings. Have the burger topped with lettuce and tomato and, even in a place called Fatburger, you'll have a healthy lunch.

Koo Koo Roo Chicken in the Summerhill Plaza at Lake Mead Boulevard and Buffalo Drive is another good, healthy fast food option. The selection of side dishes is wonderful. I'm partial to the butternut squash -- I'm told it's one of their biggest sellers. The original broiled, skinless, marinated chicken is still my favorite.

Baja Fresh is another good, fast lunch spot. The one in the Sahara Pavilion offers patio seating. When the weather is cooler, it's a lovely spot for a quick, tasty, inexpensive meal.

When time permits, I opt for lunch at Mayflower Cuisinier just across the way from Baja Fresh. They offer an enclosed patio just for their patrons.

Just a few steps further is Cafe Nicolle, a longtime Las Vegas favorite. Dine inside or on the patio. At prime lunch times, there's often a wait for a table, but because my schedule rarely allows lunch at the normal times, for me it's never a problem.

Short orders

Zagat debuts Paris guide

The first Zagat Survey of Paris restaurants is now in book stores. The highly- regarded national survey went international with the publication last year of a London guide. "This is the first time that French diners have been asked to vote on their restaurants," co-publisher Nina Zagat said. "Our guides are founded on the simple, but seemingly revolutionary premise that many palates are better than one."

More Zagat

The 1999 edition of the Las Vegas Zagat is now in the works. To participate, you must fill out a survey. To receive one, call 259-4080 and leave your name and address. All participants who return the survey by Aug. 15 receive the restaurant guide free when it's published.

A taste of wine history

The Wine Cellar at the Rio continues its Saturday afternoon "A Taste of History" series Saturday, and also Aug. 29 and Sept. 26. All of the programs are from 3:30-4:30 p.m. The series is hosted by Master Sommelier Barrie Larvin. Reservations are suggested; call 258-7718.

Cruise Burgundy

Rio's Napa Chef Jean-Louis Palladin will be the guest chef aboard the Anacoluthe on a Burgundy barge cruise Oct. 17-23. Price of the trip is $2,490 and includes all food, wine and transportation to and from the barge from Paris. Round-trip business-class airfare is an additional $2,000. The price also includes magnificent Burgundian cuisine, foie gras, wine and cheese tastings, chef-led trips to local markets and special cooking demonstrations. This barge opportunity is a joint effort between the James Beard Foundation and B&V Associates, operators of the largest fleet of barge cruises in Europe. For additional information or reservations, call Naomi Kabak at B&V, (800) 676-6613.

Sugarless sale

Sugarless Shack (Diabetic Fantasies), at 2570 E. Tropicana Ave., is having a summer and anniversary sale through the end of August. Store hours are 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Saturday.

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