Columnist Muriel Stevens: Treasure an island of culinary bliss at Treasure Island

Las Vegas has a plethora of Italian restaurants, but until the opening of Francesco's in Treasure Island the specialities of Sardinia were in short supply.

Francesco's is an attractive place, with warm, colorful decor. Paintings by celebrity artists -- Phyllis Diller, Tony Curtis, Tony Bennett -- coexist with an authentic Picasso.

Francesco's chef Marco Porceddu is native a Sardinian. He cooks dishes from all of the regions of Italy, but his heart belongs to the flavors of Sardinia and is influenced by the surrounding countries -- Morocco, Tunisia and Turkey.

Francesco's menu reflects all of the influences. When I dined there recently, the pasta selection included everything from lasagna to the chewy Sardinian Strozzapreti pasta. The basic menu of antipasti ($3.95-$9.95), pasta and risotto ($8.95-$15.95) and entrees ($9.95-$19.95) is constant. A menu of specials changes daily. The dishes are exciting and unusual.

A good way to taste the range of Chef Marco's cooking is to have a tasting dinner. Price varies according to what the chef cooks. Five-course tasting dinners range from $40-$60 per person. Chef Marco will discuss the menu, but it's pretty much up to him what he cooks. Of course, if there are dietary restrictions or foods a diner doesn't like, the chef will work around it.

Our dinner started off on a high note with a beautiful presentation of Dungeness crab meat layered with Moroccan dried olives and avocadoes. A drizzle of chili oil circled the plate. Two of the live crabs had been brought to our table so we could choose the size we wanted. Never before have I seen such beautiful Dungeness crab. Langoustine were presented on roasted artichoke bottoms with black trumpet mushrooms and a ragout of the langoustine.

The sweetbreads and yellow chanterelle mushrooms were piquant with a white vinegar sauce. "Strangled Priest," a Sardinian speciality, had a sauce that was made from saffron that had been infused for one hour in boiling hot white wine. The delicious sauce topped bay scallops and fava beans. On the side of the plate was a small grilled octopus, so perfect it didn't look real. Each dish was delicious and interesting. Each time the chef came out of the kitchen to discuss the next course, he whetted our appetites anew.

Black ravioli, made with squid ink, were filled with a green pea and onion mousse. Shreds of zucchini and a few mussels garnished the plate. We would have happily stopped at this point, but the chef had more in store. Dungeness crab meat was mixed with a creamy risotto made with a stock made from the crab shells. The risotto was served in the larger shell. The last course, escolar with shiitake mushrooms and saffron, was pure bliss. The delicate escolar is just one of the out-of-the-ordinary fish served at Francesco's. Others are orata, dorade and branzino. Chef Marco buys whatever is at its peak.

The chef did not know we were coming, but was able to cook up this wonderful meal without notice.

We wanted to beg off on dessert, but Chef Marco implored us to let him make one of his special ice creams. Could the chef really make ice cream on demand? Yes. In 15 minutes he whipped up white chocolate espresso ice cream, covered it with fresh raspberries, studded the dessert with pieces of homemade truffles, drizzled a sauce made of Saba -- Sardinian grape juice he imports -- and triumphantly presented a dish to each of us. How does he get it to freeze in such a short time? It's a secret he was reluctant to share.

Our dinner lasted about 2 1 1/2 hours. In between courses I learned that the chef cooks by instinct, rarely has any idea of what he's going to make until he talks to the diners, and loves the challenge of creating new dishes for every tasting dinner. Of course, anyone wanting such a dinner could call ahead and give the chef a little more notice than we did, but he's obviously prepared to create a splendid meal with little or no notice.

Francesco's serves dinner daily, 5:30-11 p.m. Reservations are requested. Call 894-7111.

Short orders

*Green Lips Cafe at Sunset and Green Valley Parkway is offering Seafood Fare every Wednesday from 4-11 p.m. Includes, for $15.50 per person, all-you-can-eat soup, salad and bread; a green lip mussel sampler with three sauces, and a choice of one of 17 entrees -- among the entree selection is salmon, sea bass, Korean-style grilled halibut, Cajun scallops, baked orange roughy and pan-seared ahi tuna. Thursday nights, Green Lips is offering Veal Night for $13.75 per person -- a 24-ounce osso buco is $20.50. The price includes all-you-can-eat soup, salad and bread, and a choice of one of 12 entrees. Included are veal scallopini, veal Milanese, veal pizziola, Weiner scnitzel, a paillard with herbs and two non-veal dishes.

*Green Lips will present Night of the Caviars June 25th. This is an interesting departure from the Spotlight on Chefs series. Included for $65 per person are a reception with selected caviars and blini, quail eggs, and petite potatoes; three courses that include caviar -- baked steelhead salmon, a salad of baby greens and vegetables and herb-crusted jumbo sea scallops. Dessert is a refreshing mix of berries and tropical fruits in a mint sauce. Wines chosen by Steven Geddes, Director of Fine Wines at Southern Wine and Spirits, will accompany each course. Space is limited, reservations are required. Call 450-3104.

*The second Las Vegas International MicroBrew Festival is scheduled for June 13 at Trent Park in Summerlin. Tickets are $20 in advance, $25 at the door. Call USA Hosts at 798-0000, or stop by any of the Mr. Bill's Pipe and Tobacco locations. A number of Las Vegas brewing companies, including Gordon Biersch, Holy Cow, Main Street Station, Barley's and Sunset Station, will join a host of out-of-state microbrewers. For more information, call Elmore Sports at 798-0000.

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