Columnist Muriel Stevens: Slowly but surely tasting the offerings at Bellagio

It will take some time to dine at all of the Bellagio restaurants, but the first one I tried, Osteria del Circo, more than lived up to the advance publicity.

Circo and its adjacent companion, the highly esteemed Le Cirque, are owned by consummate restaurateur Sirio Maccioni, his wife Egidiana, and their sons, Mauro, Mario and Marco. The Bellagio restaurants are re-creations of the celebrated New York Le Cirque and the upbeat, bistro-like Circo, featuring a colorful circus theme.

Both restaurants showcase the earthy, homey dishes of Tuscany inspired by Mrs. Maccioni and Circo Chef de Cuisine Enzo Secci.

There were 24 of us at the birthday party I attended. We were seated in one of the two private dining rooms. Our three tables had a gorgeous view of the lake and the fountains. Periodically, we would be diverted from our conversations when the exquisite fountains performed.

When we finally turned our attention to the menu, we were beguiled by the choices. It was only last year that I visited Montecatini Terme, where Maccioni was born. I remembered well the delicious food of the region, and now, here it was in Las Vegas.

We ordered dinner from the menu. Only the desserts had been prearranged. With so many diners, we just about ordered the entire menu.

Thirty vegetable soup, a robust mix that is slow-cooked until the vegetables are barely recognizable, was topped with toasted Tuscan bread and served in a natural pottery casserole. The flavor was exceptional. Salads were almost too beautiful to eat. Some of the appetizers and almost all of the risottos and pastas may be ordered in half or full portions. We took full advantage of this policy, ordering half orders of the spinach gnocchi; lobster and Italian green pea risotto; and the Tuscan fish soup with lobster, prawns, calamari, monkfish, clams and mussels.

Chef Secci's Fiorentina T-bone steak was every bit as good as the one I'd enjoyed in Florence, and it was much less expensive. The steak, served for two or more ($29 per person), is sliced from the bone and served with cannelini beans, seasonal mushrooms and baked tomatoes. The two who ordered this succulent dish couldn't agree on the degree of doneness. "No problem," our captain, Antonio, said. Somehow he managed to please them both.

My spit-roasted, free range chicken was crisp, seasoned perfectly and redolent with fresh herbs. With it came coarsely mashed, roasted rosemary potatoes and a ragu of wild mushrooms. A casserole of salt cod and a paillard of veal were selected by the other diners at our table. There was much sharing and ongoing discussions about each dish. Sharing dishes inspires such camaraderie that even those of us who had just met felt like longtime friends.

Our finale, a line of desserts from Pastry Chef Patrice Caillot, placed down the center of the table, was scrumptious: warm, fudgy fallen cake; a tall Napoleon layered with fresh raspberries and strawberries; sorbet atop a creamy custard, surrounded by fresh fruit; and plump, round, doughnut-like bomboloni with cream-filled centers.

It was a delightful meal.

Osteria del Circa serves lunch 12-3 p.m., and dinner, 5:30 p.m.-12:30 a.m., every day. Appetizers at lunch are priced at $7-$9.50; main courses, $19-$26. Dinner appetizers, $7-$23; entrees, $19-market price.

Dress code for Osteria del Circa is "casual elegance." Some diners were more casual than elegant. Only the ones without reservations were turned away for lack of space. Reservations are recommended; call 693-8150.

Short orders

*Old Time Reunion

If you missed the third annual Old Time reunion held recently at the Stardust hotel, you missed one of the best meal deals in town: a three-course, prime rib dinner for $30, and a show filled with nostalgia. More than 1,000 attended, including such notable long-timers as: Senator Richard and Bonnie Bryan, Marjorie Barrick and Tom White, former Mayor Bill Briare, Bruce Banke, Al Collins, Thalia Dondero, Josie and Joel Snow, Bonnie and former Mayor Oran Gragson and many more. Event founders -- Paul Endy, Ken Johann, Thalia Dondero, Lou Pearl, Davey Pearl, Ruthe Deskin, Jack Kogan, Joe Delaney and Abe Fox -- can take a bow for providing such a fun-filled event at such a modest price. Entertainers Peter Anthony (he was the emcee), Bernie Allen, Peggy Ryan and her TNT dancers had us all rolling in the aisles. The Four Freshmen closed the nostalgic event. All Las Vegans who have lived here for 30 years or more can attend next time.

*Culinary pros

Chef Joe Delrosario, former head of the culinary programs at Community College of Southern Nevada, has opened Culinary Pro Services, a personal chef service with professionally-trained, award-winning chefs who will come to your home to cook for you. Chef Joe and his merry chefs will do everything from a small dinner party to preparing meals for the freezer. To learn more, call 643-7316.

*Fiesta buffet

Time changes have been made at the Fiesta Festival Buffet and at the Old San Francisco Steakhouse. New times for the steakhouse are Sunday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, 5-9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5-10 p.m.

Festival Buffet hours have changed to 7-10:30 a.m. for breakfast; 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., lunch; 4-10 p.m., dinner; weekend brunch, 7 a.m.-3 p.m.

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