Columnist Muriel Stevens: If it's fall, it's time to eat for good causes

The fall season is in full swing for charity dinners and dining events that are just for pure pleasure.

A dinner at Gatsby's for the Las Vegas Chapter of the International Gourmet Society, Chaine des Rotisseurs, was a hedonist's delight.

Guests gathered in the lively lounge before dinner for champagne, cocktails and a delicious array of hot and cold hors d'oeuvres. Included were Maine day boat lobster salad on brioche toast; wild mushroom ragout on tiny toasts; beggars purses filled with oscetra caviar and vodka creme fraiche; beluga caviar on buttermilk blinis, accented with mashed avocado; shrimp mousse; sauteed sweetbreads with seared Hudson Valley foie gras; macadamia-crusted escolar on somen noodles; grilled Thai beef on skewers; and spicy, wild game-filled won tons. It was a colorful, flavorful display. So enjoyable was the cocktail hour that guests were almost reluctant to leave.

Gatsby's elegant dining room was once the site of Charlie Trotter's. Some changes were made after Trotter returned to Chicago. Entrance is now made through the easy-to-find lounge, making access to the dining room much easier than it was before.

This was the first Chaine dinner at Gatsby's. For this debut event, Chef de Cuisine Terence Fong and his Sous Chefs Richard Cao and Michael Connolly, created a menu of classic and contemporary dishes, beautifully paired with wines chosen by Sommelier Luis de Santos.

A smoked salmon terrine was studded with black lentils, then wrapped with Savoy cabbage. The cold terrine was highlighted with a swath of red beet coulis. With it was a zesty Sauvignon Blanc, E&W Poltz "Hochgras" Austria, 1996.

A delicious, earthy salad of poached salsify and white asparagus was garnished with toasted macadamia nuts and Parmesan cheese and dressed with a Port vinaigrette.

Tiny Sacramento quail were stuffed with wild mushrooms, pate de foie gras and a rich mushroom duxelles then perched atop a roasted corn cake. Masking the quail was a white truffle sauce. As a counterpoint to the richness of the dish -- Chateau-Du-Pape Blanc, Chateau de la Nerthe, Southern Rhone Valley, 1996.

A bit of theater came with the intermezzo -- cactus pear sorbet served in a stemmed crystal flower. A drizzle of champagne poured over the sorbet caused it to bubble like a witches cauldron on Halloween.

Slices of the famed, fat-streaked Kobe beef of Japan were balanced with a rolled Petaluma organic chicken breast filled with spinach and sun-dried tomatoes. An ideal match was the robust Rioja Reserva, Dominio de Conte, Spain 1994.

Replete with good food and wine, we could hardly entertain the thought of dessert, but Gatsby Pastry Chef Joan McNear's Chocolate Fantasy was so irresistible it disappeared in a minute. Artfully arranged on a dinner plate were an assortment of tiny desserts -- chocolate creme brulee, terrine of chocolate, a chocolate Napoleon and chocolate sorbet. Fresh fruit was strewn on the plate, adding a touch of reason to the delicious temptation. Each tiny dessert was delectable. A 20-year-old Tawny Port from Portugal, served with dessert, Ramos-Pinto "Quinta do Bom Retiro," was superb. Silky, with just a touch of sweetness, it was a sublime finish.

Gatsby's offers tasting dinners, with or without wines, as part of its regular menu, and regularly hosts wine dinners. For additional information, call 891-7337.

*New owners at Sonia's

For the past month, the new team -- George Aretos and Ted Aretos -- at Sonia's Cafe, at West Charleston and Valley View boulevards, has been getting to know the menu and their customers. Under the watchful eye of former owner Sonia, the transition has been smooth. I enjoy the delicious food in this small restaurant and was concerned that new owners would change the homey concept.

Not to worry. I've met owner George and he's a delightful young man. He assured me that the same menu, same prices and same service will remain. All items, from the salad dressings to desserts, remain homemade, even the Mexican food, salsa and tortilla chips. Sonia is assisting with the transition and is there at lunch time most days.

George was raised with restaurants. At one time his father Ted owned a number of eateries in Chicago.

Some new features have been added to Sonia's. Parking has been increased, making it much easier at prime times to get a space. Beginning Nov. 2, weekday hours will be extended to 9 p.m. A catering service is now available. Everything on the menu is available, including the authentic California pita rolls, Mexican food, rotisserie chicken, trays of fresh fruits, vegetables and dips, and cookies. "All priced," George said, "according to a person's budget." They deliver and will set up the food.

Sonia's serves lunch and dinner from 11 a.m. Monday through Friday; Saturday, 11 a.m.-3 p.m.

Short orders

*French Fare at CCSN

Don't miss the five-course French dinners taking place at the Community College of Southern Nevada at Russell's Restaurant on the Cheyenne Campus, Thursdays through Nov. 19. The dinners, with wine, are priced at a modest $20 per person. For reservations (a must) and additional information, call Karen Falco at 651-4701. Visa and Master Card are accepted.

*Mondavi at Bix's

Bix's will offer a Robert Mondavi Winery Dinner Nov. 10. Guest speaker will be Robert Mondavi, Jr. The all-inclusive price, $75, includes a multi-course dinner created by Bix's Executive Chef Steven Zucker, Mondavi wines and cigars from the Napa Cigar Company. Space is limited for this choice event. For reservations, call 889-0800.

*Jazz at Panini

Panini restaurant in the Sunset Pecos Plaza, 3460 E. Sunset Road, has inaugurated a jazz policy on Friday and Saturday evenings from 8 p.m.- midnight. The jazz band Coalition features Tony Branco (piano), Marc Cunningham (sax), Chris Hermes (bass), Bob Ego (drums) and Jennifer Nam (vocals). Coalition has performed locally and in California, and recently released its first CD, "Tributes." A second CD, "Star Walk," is scheduled to be released in November. For more about Panini restaurant and jazz, call owner Herman Hochmeyer at 436-3100.

*Custom appoints Atkins

Custom Food Products, Inc. has appointed Van Atkins Corporate Executive Chef and Account Manager, Western Region. Atkins, who has a remarkable list of culinary credits, is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America. Included among his career credits are stints at Caesars Palace and the Luxor hotels as Executive Chef. Atkins is one of 100 members worldwide of the Exclusive Order of the Golden Toque. Most recently, he was Divisional Executive Chef of Nestle Food Services.

*Seafood buffet at Santa Fe

The Santa Fe Hotel in the northwest valley is now offering a special seafood buffet Wednesday nights from 5-10 p.m. Set in the attractive Ti Amo restaurant, the buffet features a wide variety of fish and shellfish including: crab cakes; stuffed clams; chilled king crab legs, shrimp, lobster, oysters and clams; cioppino; and assorted fresh fish -- salmon, halibut, swordfish and trout. There's a soup and salad station, cheese display, assorted breads, prime rib, grilled chicken breasts and a variety of desserts. The price is $18.99 per person, plus tax. The buffet stretches from the restaurant into the Santa Fe Pavilion, providing diners with a lovely courtyard setting.

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