Columnist Muriel Stevens: With the bubbly comes a bit of history

"TONIGHT, WE ARE drinking history." With those stirring words, Comte Audoin de Dampierre opened the last magnum of the 1980 Dampierre Grand Cru Cuvee de Prestige champagne. It was poured as part of a delightful evening hosted by the Comte at Melange in the Mirage.

Dampierre's fine champagnes were introduced to this area just last year at a dinner at Andre's in the Monte Carlo. The Dampierre family has had roots in the Champagne region of France for more than 700 years. In France, Champagne Dampierre is delivered straight from their cellars to such notables as the president of the French Republic, to the Senate, National Assembly and to the minister of foreign affairs.

Since last year's introduction here of Dampierre Champagne, it has quickly made its mark.

Comte Dampierre is a charming, erudite fellow. During dinner he regaled us with stories about the history of the stately family home. During World War II for four months, the home was headquarters of the American Signal Corps. Fifty-four years later, there was a knock at the door. There stood two veterans who had such fond memories of the time spent there, they just had to return. Fondest of all was their memory of the champagne from the Dampierre cellars. Of course, the Comte refreshed their memory.

A Dampierre dessert wine, Gout Americain, is named in their honor. The Comte recommends that it be enjoyed with foie gras or elegant desserts.

Dampierre is personally involved with every step of his company's champagne-making process. Using a combination of traditional methods and modern equipment, he oversees the blending and and maturing of the champagne. By doing this, he says, he is better able to assure the quality from year to year.

How successful he is at achieving his goal is apparent in every sip of his champagnes.

In addition to the outstanding 1980 Cuvee Prestige, we tasted the nonvintage Ambassadeurs at the reception and with the first course; a 1988 Cuvee Prestige with the second; a yet-to-be-named Dampierre 1990 with the third; and, with dessert, a lively Brut Rose 1992. The retail price range for the Dampierre champagnes ranges from moderate to expensive. Regardless of what they cost, be assured they are excellent.

More history, as well as a bit of theater, accompanied the opening of the 1980 Cuvee de Prestige. Determined to keep alive past traditions, the Comte has revived one of the oldest methods of corking the bottles. Known as "ficelage," it uses hemp twine to secure the cork. The mere tying of the cork itself becomes an art. It is a very expensive technique that must be done entirely by hand. It is used exclusively for the Cuvee Prestige (the most expensive) which has matured for at least 10 years. The champagne comes in a presentation box which includes a small scissors for cutting the cord.

Each course of the dinner created by Chef Alex Stratta was designed to complement the wines. Dinner was a stunning display of the talents of the vintner and the chef. It was a formidable combination.

Stratta and his assistant, Chef Steven Varga come to the Mirage from Mary Elaine's restaurant in the Phoenician Hotel in Phoenix. Stratta is the winner of many awards. Most recently he was named the James Beard Award winner for the Southwest.

Hors d'oeuvres passed during the reception included roasted foie gras glazed with 100-year-old balsamic vinegar, pencil-thin bread sticks (grissinni) wrapped with sandanielle ham, mussel and celery remoulade with saffron, roasted duck with sun dried fig and olives and crisps made of Parmigiano cheese. Elegantly presented, they were instantly devoured.

The dinner that followed was flawless. Serving more than 20 people at the same time is an art in itself. Each dish was beautifully presented. There were no long intervals between courses. The timing was perfect. It was the best kind of culinary choreography.

A sublime Napoleon of house-smoked salmon, toro (tuna) tartare and marinated cucumbers was topped with osetra caviar; seared spot prawns were nestled over fresh cranberry beans, bits of cabbage, and sweet, tiny Italian onions (cippolini) and enhanced with just a touch of seafood sauce; a superb slice of roasted turbot accompanied with zucchini, olives and the most voluptuous oven-dried tomatoes ever tasted was garnished with a crisp zucchini flower, flattened to resembled an exotic fan. Simply wonderful.

Pastry Chef Christof Ithurritze (formerly of Spago) mystified and delighted with a heart-shaped caramelized chocolate dessert that was irresistible. A tiny cookie cup placed atop the dessert held three perfect raspberries. The rich, but not too sweet, flavor of the Brut Rose was an ideal pairing with the mousse-like dessert.

With the coffee, the Comte offered Dampierre XO Cognac. This smooth cognac is made with a blend of five different wines from the cognac region. It is not yet available in the United States. Dampierre champagnes are available at most local wine stores.

More Mirage

The Mirage is currently undergoing a make-over of all of its restaurants. Riva Italian restaurant has closed and will soon reopen as Onda. Todd English of Olives in Boston and soon, Bellagio, is designing the menu.

Melange will close for redoing shortly and will be renamed after its renowned chef Alex Stratta. A Brazilian steakhouse, Samba, is already under construction. New menus and updates are planned also for the other Mirage restaurants.

Short orders

*Biersch Oktoberfest

Gordon Biersch Brewing Company will celebrate Oktoberfest with a special lager beer called Weisenhelles (light beer of the meadow) and a host of German-inspired dishes -- dumplings, sauerbraten, schnitzel, apple strudel and more. Weisenbelles beer is available now through Nov. 16; the special Oktoberfest menu, Oct. 8-10. Gordon Biersch is located in the Hughes Center at 3987 Paradise Road.

*Emeril cooks for Andre

New Orleans favorite chef Emeril Lagasse is offering a special package to be auctioned at "Grand Slam for Children," a major fund-raiser for local children's charities sponsored by the Andre Agassi Charitable Foundation. Lagasse's gift, "Emeril Lagasse Custom Dinner," includes a complete meal personally prepared by the master himself and his staff. They'll cater the repast at the home of the successful bidder anywhere in the world. A sommelier will accompany the chef and his merry band of helpers and present selected wines throughout the meal. Grand Slam for Children will take place in the MGM Grand Garden Sept. 26. For additional information, call 227-5700.

*Beer series at Boulder

Boulder Station will debut its new beer series Tuesday at 6:30 p.m. The event will take place in the Pasta Palace Italian restaurant. For $35 (all inclusive), guests will partake of "international cuisine, from Asian to European" created by Boulder's Executive Chef Daniel Pfeiffer and quaff a variety of Samuel Adams beers. Chris Durante from the Boston-based beer company will provide insight into the characteristics and versatility of one of America's favorite beverages. For reservations call 432-7771.

archive