The Main Course -- Muriel Stevens: A double pleasure realized for Valentino at the Venetian

Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at [email protected] or 259-4080.

A birthday and the opening of Piero Selvaggio's Valentino Italian restaurant in the Venetian made the popular California restaurateur feel "twice blessed."

Surrounded by family and friends, mostly from California, Piero was at his very best. This charming gentleman is never happier than when he's entertaining.

I've known Piero since he opened Valentino in Santa Monica many years ago. It was a regular stop each time my late spouse and I visited the area. Valentino was my first introduction to fine Sicilian food. Every dish was always perfect.

So was the dinner we enjoyed at the birthday party.

Comfortably ensconced in one of the private dining rooms, we celebrated the birth of the Las Vegas Valentino, and the birth of its elegant owner.

Chef Luciano Pellegrini was both chef and guest. When he wasn't busy in the kitchen he joined his wife, Fonda, at the table. For openers there was an assortment of Sicilian finger foods -- so tempting we had to remind ourselves that dinner was to follow.

Dinner was one delightful course after the other, each accompanied by marvelous wines. Collecting fine wines is Piero's passion. His wine list has won innumerable awards.

Here's what we ate and imbibed: ostriche e beluga, one perfect oyster topped with a generous portion of beluga caviar, and Salon Brut 1988; tonno affumicato alla crema di ricci di mare, a picture-perfect smoked tuna carpaccio with a sea urchin sauce, and Iron Horse Chardonnay, Estate, Sonoma 1997; filetto di triglia dorato con sformato di riso nero e seppie, red mullet with black risotto with cuttlefish, and Schiopetto Collio, Sauvignon 1997.

Then came tortelloni ripieni di coniglio, funghi e asparagi selvatici, butter sauced tortellini stuffed with rabbit and topped with wild mushrooms -- with it Marchesi Guerrieri Gonzaga, San Leonardo 1993; filetto bi due Rossini, filet of beef Rossini, a superior version of the classic beef and foie gras dish, accompanied with a marvelous Angelo Gaja, Barbaresco 1988.

A Mediterranean-style salad with robiola cheese and glasses of Martinelli, Jackass Vineyard 1996 were a satisfying bridge to the final course, dessert.

Semifreddo (half cold) all'ananas e cioccolato, a delicious mix of pineapple and chocolate, was bite-by-bite devoured. But there was more -- piccola pasticceria, Italian petit fours and cookies and port wine and the fiery Italian grappa.

Throughout dinner Piero expressed his and his family's "unlimited joy" over our being there. By his side were wife, Stacy, and his beautiful young sons, Giorgio, G.P. and Tancredi.

Valentino General Manager-Partner Arturo Nieto somehow managed to oversee the event and the restaurant and still be part of the party.

Piero's longtime friend, Emilio Baglioni (formerly the owner of L.A.'s Emilio's restaurant on Melrose), who now lives in Nevada, provided additional fun. Emilio played the concertina; his friend Enzo Gagliardi played guitar and we played the willing audience. It was great fun.

More Valentino: Valentino is a handsome restaurant with a main dining room and many hideaway tables that give privacy. Some of the tables are in wine storage areas. Valentino's wine selection is remarkable. Wine storage is everywhere.

There are private party rooms with sliding glass partitions that open to give additional space. It's all cleverly designed to assure total privacy.

Antipasti and soups are priced from $9-$16. Among the Primi Piatti (course before the entree) selections are meat agnolotti; ricotta ravioli with butter, sage and walnuts; and a duck lasagna with wild mushrooms ($13-$15).

Chef Luciano makes excellent risottos. One features dried berries and roasted quail wrapped in bacon.

A variety of fish, including Sicilian style swordfish rolls with couscous and osso buc made with lamb shank, are among the many specialties ($25-$34).

A stunning selection of desserts are all priced at $8. Try choosing from these delectable options -- triple chocolate truffle tart with vanilla parfait, ricotta and mascarpone strudel with cranberries, a basket of berries in white chocolate cream, strawberry crepes with fresh bananas, and pears poached in Burgundy wine with pear sorbet. And, there's more.

Valentino also showcases a six-course tasting menu starting at $70 per diner. Should you choose this, be sure to let the captain know if you have any special dietary requests.

For Valentino reservations, call 414-3000.

For a casual meal try Piero's Italian Grill & Wine Bar. It's a terrific value.

Featured are appetizers and salads ($7-$11), pastas in half or full portions (from $11) and entrees from the grill ($15-$20). These items are served from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and from 5 to 11 p.m. A lighter menu with sandwiches, pizza, salad and side dishes and desserts is available all day and night.

The wine bar is another good value. Wines can be purchased in 2 or 4-ounce tasting sizes and by the glass and, of course, by the bottle. Two-ounce glasses cost as little as $2.

Regardless of where you dine, the main dining room or the wine bar, the food and service are excellent.

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