Columnist Muriel Stevens: Mambo over to Samba Grill for dining pleasure

Going to a new restaurant opening night is not my usual habit. It's the rare restaurant that doesn't need a few days shakedown before it's ready for the public ... and food writers.

But I couldn't wait to go to the new Brazilian restaurant at the Mirage, Samba Grill. So, opening night with a friend in tow, I mamboed over to Brazil, Las Vegas-style, and had a delicious evening.

Samba Grill is a happening. The decor is colorful, capturing the spirit of the theme. Walking to the restaurant and seeing the backs of the booths with their brilliant fabrics gave only an inkling of the restaurant's smashing interior.

Remember Fiesta Ware, the multicolored dishes that are still so popular? That's the type of tabletop china you'll find here. Salt and pepper shakers are balloon-shaped. Take them out of the stand and shake them like maracas over the food. It doesn't need any additional seasoning, but shake if you must.

Samba Grill Chef Patrick Glennon is a master at blending spices. Like a sorcerer, he dries, grinds and blends his own rubs and spice combinations. What a difference it makes. It also takes patience. Glennon has it all, especially the skill to make up these wondrous combinations.

Cracking his formulas is not likely. I tried, but it would take a cipher expert to disclose Glennon's secrets.

Central to Samba Grill's menu is The Rodizio Experience, unlimited servings of marinated meats, poultry and seafood. But, that's not all.

Each Rodizio Experience includes a bottomless bowl of Samba Salad, side dishes of creamed spinach, black beans and rice, sweet fried bananas and Cuban-style potato cakes and a basket of authentic breads. All this for $24.95 per person.

Each of the meats is cooked on a special rotisserie in an open kitchen. Guests seated nearby can watch the chefs in action. There's plenty of action, too, at the dinner tables. A parade of servers brandishing machete-like knives bring long skewers of sweet sausages, lemon pepper chicken, rolled turkey breast, Parmesan-crusted vegetables, chili-rubbed flank steak, beef sirloin Churasco (cowboy) style, lemon soy London broil, garlic rubbed leg of lamb, pork loin skewered with fresh pineapple and chunks of velvet-textured salmon -- the only item not cooked on the rotisserie.

The meats are sliced to order and fall into the tray placed at the bottom of the skewer. The diner transports the meat to the plate using the handy tongs at each place setting. If you're too busy stuffing your face to be bothered, the server does it for you.

The food just keeps coming unless you use the little red and green gizmo on the table to indicate whether they should stop or continue.

Have at least one of the a la carte appetizers ($6-$12). They're too good to miss. A Nuestra duck tamale with pineapple chutney and smoked tomato sauce was excellent; chili-crusted crab cakes, not too spicy, were packed with crab meat; the crispy coconut prawns were outstanding -- what wonderful flavors in all of these appetizers.

The appetizers can also be ordered at the jewel of a bar (eight seats) that sits on one side of the dining room.

Samba's menu includes a la carte entrees ($24.95); scrumptious desserts ($5-$9), including a warm, flourless chocolate cake; a lovely rice pudding laced with pineapple; and a banana split for two that could easily satisfy four after a Rodizio dinner.

There are many tropical drinks. The specialty of the house is the Caipirnha made with cachca, a Brazilian sugarcane liqueur that goes down sooooo easy. Buy this by the glass in small or large sizes ($4.75-$8) or by the pitcher ($14). Freshly squeezed mango, passion fruit, grapefruit and orange juices are also available by the glass or pitcher.

In a few weeks, Samba Grill will open for lunch with a smaller version of The Rodizio Experience ($14.95 -- seven meats and poultry), and salads, and sandwiches.

Dinner hours are 5:30-11 p.m. For additional information or reservations, call 791-7111.

Inaugural feast

"Splendid" and "gorgeous" were the words heard over and over again at Gov. Kenny Guinn's Las Vegas inaugural ball that took place Saturday at the MGM Conference and Convention Center. Christian Bourdel and the culinary staff at this spectacular facility produced a remarkable array of elegant foods for both the pre-ball reception and the much larger gala that followed.

Friends told me there was no difference between the foods served at both parties. The ice carvings were magnificent, and in spite of an attendance of more than 5,000 people, there was an abundance of food until the very end.

Unlike Blanche in the Tennessee Williams drama, "A Streetcar Named Desire," I had to depend on the kindness of friends -- not strangers -- for this information. Of course, I had purchased a ticket, but "they" wouldn't let me in!

For festive food events I always arrive early so that I can view the decor and food before the crowd arrives. I've never had a problem until now. This time I was thwarted by a horde of security men who were only doing their job, but hardly in a civil manner. They frantically waved me away, never giving me the opportunity to state my case. I later learned that I wasn't the only one turned away.

One VIP was so angry he left his car in the street. A friend who witnessed the frustrating scene got valet parking to take the car. I'd never have the guts to do that. My car would probably end up in impound after being towed.

I had no choice but to return home. I missed an amazing array of cold and hot hors d'oeuvres, rack of lamb, beef Wellington, a "symphony" of seafood and indulging at the lavish Viennese dessert table, and sipping the international coffees that were served with them.

And, I didn't get to see the winter wonderland setting that included bighorn sheep, wild cats, mountain bears and other indigenous beasties displayed in the foyer that were on loan from the Museum of Natural History.

It would have been most enjoyable to listen to our own philharmonic orchestra playing as guests entered the ballroom and, later, to hear the glorious voice of Suzanne Faracci and the voices of the mellow McGuire Sisters.

It would have been just swell to witness young Reno police officer Ashton Packe biting into an oyster and finding a black pearl! That must have been fun.

I didn't have to be there to know that Inaugural Ball co-chairwomen Dorothy Huffey and Sandy Peltyn did a grand job. Everyone I know told me.

But, until they get those grouchy security people to go to charm school, I'm bowing out of all events that require high security.

Short orders

Martini Ranch debuts

After the completion of a multimillion expansion, Texas Station will celebrate its grand reopening with firework-filled festivities beginning Tuesday. The new Martini Ranch promises to become a hangout for devotees of gourmet pizzas and huge martinis. Don't miss the lobster cocktail served in one of the large martini glasses ($13.99). Presentation and quality are first-rate.

Miller and Martinelli at MGM

Coyote Cafe in the MGM Grand will present four nights of exceptional shellfish prepared by Chef Billy Martinelli and Coyote Cafe's Celebrity Chef/Owner Mark Miller. Martinelli is America's leading exporter of shellfish and is the proprietor of the internationally acclaimed Martinelli Shellfish Co. Miller and Martinelli are longtime friends. This is the first time they will be working together since 1982. For information about the dinners or reservations, call 891-7349.

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