Columnist Muriel Stevens: Chaine induction dinner a big hit at Bellagio's Picasso

The end of the year was a celebration of fine food, parties and romance.

First came the Las Vegas Chaine induction dinner at Bellagio. "Glorious" is the word that best describes the dinner that took place at Bellagio's Picasso restaurant.

The restaurant takes its name from artist Pablo Picasso. Central to the dining room is a collection of the master's paintings and ceramics. Picasso paintings are on display throughout the restaurant; one wall is devoted to the artist's ceramics.

Picasso's design is open and spacious. Windows surround the dining room, offering a breathtaking view of Bellagio's Lake Como and the spectacular fountains.

A large sideboard dominates the center of the dining room. On the top are masses of fresh flowers. Smaller arrangements of gorgeous blooms (grown in Bellagio's greenhouse) are everywhere.

Every step into this inviting dining room reveals yet another treasure.

At work in the kitchen is another artist. Award-winning Chef Julian Serrano is executive chef at Picasso. Before coming to Bellagio, he was the driving force that made Masa's in San Francisco a four-star restaurant.

Although Spanish, Chef Serrano has an affinity for French food. Ask the chef to define his cuisine and he playfully responds that his inspiration "comes from Julian Serrano." He is a charming gentleman and a superb chef.

The evening began with a champagne reception, followed by the induction of members: J. Christopher Struhmer (Chevalier), Janet E. Crossley (Dame de la Chaine), Kim C. Pang (Maitre de Table Restaurateur), Steven W. Dezil (Maitre Hotelier), George Markantonis (Maitre Hotelier) and Paul R. O'Neil (Maitre Hotelier).

The always impressive induction ceremony was conducted by Henry Schielein of San Diego, whose title is Commandeur Bailli Provincial Far West Echanson. After giving a brief history of the venerable wining and dining society, Schielein awarded the ribbons of membership.

Bite-size potato pancakes topped with creme fraiche and osetra caviar, delicate pheasant croquettes, blinis with Scottish smoked salmon, and sensuous, pigeon-plump poached oysters with vermouth sauce and citron confit were served during the festive reception. Sipped with the hors d'oeuvre: a creamy Deutz Champagne Cuvee William 1988.

Each course of the dinner was a highlight: lobster salad with tropical fruit and citrus vinaigrette; creme pamantier, a smooth mix of leeks, potatoes and chicken stock accented with Nantucket scallops on shavings of black truffles; and lamb gratinee -- boned rack of lamb encrusted with bread crumbs and ground pecans, accompanied by a savory potato onion tart and caraway cumin sauce.

Service, orchestrated by General Manager Victorio Gonzalez, was impeccable.

Distinctive wines were poured with each course: Lucien Croche Sancerre Cuvee Prestige 1996 with the lobster; Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay Tre Terre 1996 with the soup; and two excellent vintages with the lamb -- Ferrari-Carano Tresor 1993 and Chateau De La Gardine Chateuneuf-du-Pape Cuvees des Generations 1995.

The dessert sampler created by Pastry Chef Patrick Coston was charming and delectable -- a stuffed lady apple, a timbale of passion fruit and a refreshing, small hazelnut mousse bombe.

A final holiday treat, warm roasted chestnuts in a small copper pot, captured the spirit of the holiday. We contentedly munched away between sips of Far Niente's Dolce dessert wine.

Among those basking in the warmth and camaraderie of this smashing event were: Camille and Bailli Larry Ruvo, Sandy and Mike Mecca, Betty and Mark Ervin, Claude Cevasco, Marie Claire and Rino Armeni, Lucy and Paul Pusateri, Wendy and Richard Plaster, Sharon and Paul Carelli, Jewel Brooks, Francine and Terry Graves, Susan and Andrew Tompkins, Michael Severino, Nancy and Jack Weinstein and Misty Evanoff and Tom Kaplan.

Caviar and chiliChristmas Eve at The Fountains, home of Sandy and Roger Peltyn, featured everything from down home cooking to a caviar and seafood table dominated by tall Christmas tree ice carvings. It was a smashing display that immediately attracted the guests.

The center island of the spacious kitchen, adjacent to the caviar table, served as the buffet. Overseeing the food service was longtime Las Vegas chef John Clark, who caters all of the Peltyn parties.

The island was laden with Clark's specialties: roast leg of pork with a crackling crisp skin, rare roast beef, roast turkey, a perfectly balanced chili that didn't sear the palate and numerous side dishes, relishes and condiments.

The Peltyn home was aglow with candles and Christmas decor. Later, guests gathered around the piano where two pianists played and sang throughout the evening. It was a most congenial event.

Caviar, music, romanceA special menu was created by Spago Chef/partner David Robins for an intimate New Year's Eve party hosted by Susan and Irwin Molasky at their luxurious high-rise home.

Gathered together for the celebration were some of the Molasky's closest friends: Lovee and Bob Arum, Parvin and Ted Jacobs, Carol and Joel Lubritz, Phyllis McGuire, Judy Tannen and Donna Epstein. Former Las Vegan Angela Rich with her special friend, Jeffrey Siger (how special, we would soon find out) came from New York, and Elaine Newton flew in from Los Angeles. Eydie Gorme and Steve Lawrence, home between engagements, brought their New York friend Raquel Rael.

An array of delicacies -- Scottish smoked salmon on crisp potato galettes (pancakes), caviar with blinis and toasted brioche, an assortment of sushi and French cheeses with Spago's olive bread welcomed the guests when they arrived.

Spago Chefs Jennifer Spiegel and Brian Neil were in the kitchen preparing dinner, while Spago servers Tino, Jocelyn, Eric and Adam took care of the hors d'oeuvre table and wine service. It was a blissful beginning to an evening that ended with a lovely surprise.

But, more than the food was blissful. During the evening, a talented singer and a pianist from Irwin Productions shared their microphones with Steve and Eydie and Phyllis. Rarely has such a spontaneous, spirited sing-a-long been heard. These cool cats really know how to sing. They didn't need us, but everyone joined in.

Dinner was a splendiferous buffet served on the terrace. Included were Caesar salad and Spago Waldorf salad; roasted beef tenderloin, grilled baby poussin (chicken) and sauteed John Dory fish.

The vegetable selection was wonderful -- sauteed spinach, asparagus, crisp green beans, Tuscan potato souffles, mountains of mashed potatoes studded with fresh black truffles and a fragrant porcini mushroom and truffle risotto.

Chateau Margaux and Puligny Montrachet wines and Dom Perignon Champagne were splendid accompaniments.

We had barely toasted in the New Year when Jeffrey surprised us all, including Angela, by proposing. Without hesitating, she said, "YES." The Spago desserts that came after were scrumptious, but hardly a match for this sweetest of all moments that we all got to share.

Jeffrey, a New York attorney, and Angela, a feature writer for InStyle magazine, will wed in September.

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