Columnist Muriel Stevens: Busy night going from Bellagio to Monte Carlo

To be a food writer in Las Vegas these days is a great adventure. Covering two events on the same night in different Strip hotels takes strategy and cunning.

My dilemma was this: I had to be at the Bellagio for a book signing and reception with the illustrious California winemaker Robert Mondavi and his wife/partner Margrit at 7 p.m.

I couldn't stay for the dinner that followed because I had accepted an earlier invitation to dine at Andre's in the Monte Carlo with celebrated chef Charlie Palmer. He's opening a branch of his fine New York restaurant, Aureole, in Mandalay Bay.

How could I attend both events without having to access valet parking and the inevitable wait for the car -- twice?

Going to a restaurant at the Bellagio is easy if you valet park at the north entrance on Flamingo Road. Within a short distance from the door are most of the fine restaurants.

But I would be going to the convention area. Was it shorter to go to the hotel's main entrance or the north door?

I called the hotel operator to find out. These unsung heroes of any hotel rarely let me down. "Go to the main entrance," I was told.

By now I had decided I would valet park my car at the Monte Carlo, then take a cab to the Bellagio. Later I would discover the flaw in my seemingly brilliant plan when I learned that I could have taken the hassle-free tram that connects the Bellagio and the Monte Carlo.

I allowed myself plenty of time and arrived as planned at the Monte Carlo. I went around the corner to the taxi area, where I found a long line waiting for cabs. The line moved quickly and, 10 minutes later, I was on my way.

First stopI arrived at the Bellagio with time to spare and no stress. Robert and Margrit were busy signing autographs; not just their names, but personal messages.

His new book, "Robert Mondavi: Harvest of Hope" (Harcourt Brace, $27) is the best kind of memoir, candid and interesting. Once started, it's hard to put down.

The reception took place on the Grand Patio outside the ballroom where the dinner would take place. Of course, I couldn't leave without seeing the dining room.

Opening the door released the aroma of the exquisite flowers arranged on each table. Catering Manager Tom Cook, Banquet Manager Thomas Tazbaz, Assistant Banquet Manager Shannon Pebich and Beverage Manager Ed Browne were just putting the finishing touches on the tables. The tapestry pattern of the tablecloths was matched to the fabric that was tied on the chairs into a big bow. The effect was enchanting.

At each place was a menu enhanced with a watercolor border of stylized foods, created by the talented Margrit.

Guests who attended the dinner raved about the food: roasted spot prawns with crabmeat, ratatouille ravioli, roasted loin of Colorado lamb with a ragout (stew) of artichokes and wild mushrooms, and a dessert dubbed a "tribute to a legend."

The Bellagio's award-winning pastry chef, Jean-Philipe Moray, created the stunning dessert. Tazbaz not only sent me a sketch of the towering dessert, he lovingly described it.

Dessert was presented on Mikasa painted plates. There were many parts to this intricate creation: a base of white chocolate "paisley" painted abstractly in orange and yellow; chocolate truffles used for elevation; an upside-down cone filled with chocolate mousse with Bourbon vanilla creme brulee; a ball of vanilla bean ice cream dusted with roasted pistachios that topped the cone; a crescent moon of white chocolate that surrounded the ball; and swirls of mango and raspberry sauces that were a final dramatic touch.

With each course fine Mondavi wines were poured: Robert Mondavi Chardonnay Reserve 1996, Byron Pinot Noir Reserve 1996, Luce, Red Tuscan Wine, 1995 by the families of Marchese di Frescobaldi and Robert Mondavi, and Woodbridge Portacino 1993.

By now I had been told there was a fast, easy, free way to get back to the Monte Carlo ... by tram.

The tram connecting the two hotels is a joy to ride. Access is a short walk from Bellagio's main entrance.

Second stopI arrived at the Monte Carlo in much less time than it took me to get the cab. Monte Carlo's tram access is at the end of the shopping corridor behind the Brew Pub.

Andre's in the Monte Carlo is an elegant, inviting place with many features. One of the most popular (besides the food) is the smokers' lounge and bar. Here, in the comfort of the European-styled room, smokers may puff away to their heart's content.

Fine cigars and cognacs, as well as other drinks, are available. For nonsmokers there is a sitting area outside the smokers' lounge. Not quite as posh as the lounge, but a thoughtful gesture to the smokeless set.

Our dinner took place in one of the private dining rooms on the second level.

I had met most of the Aureole staff when I dined there during a recent trip to New York. Like all successful restaurateurs who open restaurants in other locales, Palmer knows the importance of having Aureole veterans in place at Mandalay Bay.

At least 20 key people have moved here from New York to become part of Aureole Las Vegas.

Charlie Palmer, Chefs Joe and Megan Romano, artist Mark Hess, General Manager Richard Femenella, Wine Director Steven Geddes (all from Aureole LV), Andre's owners Andre Rochat and Mary Jane Jarvis, and Bill Richardson, executive vice president of Circus Circus Entertainment, made up our congenial group.

The small, chic dining room was just the right size for our party of 10.

The only course we ordered was the entree. Our first three courses were chosen by Andre's Chef Norbert Koblitz: chilled slices of pepper-seared venison with marinated hedgehog mushrooms, and a Cumberland sauce made from lingonberries instead of the traditional red currants; a Napoleon of tender sea scallops layered with crisp Maxim potatoes and fresh spinach; and a savory salad of oak leaf lettuce, pear and Roquefort cheese in phyllo, and a garnish of caramelized walnuts.

Only the salad is on the menu, but Norbert is considering putting on the others.

Pastry Chef Christina Favret presented a trio of chocolate temptations -- Chambord-soaked (raspberry-flavored liqueur) milk chocolate ganache-covered raspberries in a chocolate cup; a small, flourless chocolate cake layered and glazed with dark chocolate ganache; and in the middle of the plate, homemade chocolate ice cream sandwiched between chocolate tuiles (cookies) and sprinkled with hazelnuts.

This delicious sampler is frequently on the menu.

It was a wonderful meal accompanied with conversation that added additional spice.

Aureole Las Vegas is a smashing restaurant that bears no resemblance to its New York sister. A full report on our Aureole will appear just prior to the opening of Mandalay Bay March 2.

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