Friday, June 11, 1999 | 9:33 a.m.
Unlike most Japanese restaurants, Nobu at the Hard Rock hotel vibrates with excitement. Forget serene, tranquil. Nobu is a happening place with much to recommend it.
Here you will find exceptional Japanese food, arguably without equal. Nobu Executive Chef/Owner Nobuyaki Matsuhisa knows no boundaries. Born and raised in Tokyo, he apprenticed at sushi bars before striking out on his own. Nobu's interpretation of his native cuisine was influenced by a move to Peru, where he opened a sushi bar, and a later move to Argentina. Then he went back to Japan and, next, to Alaska. Another move took him to Los Angeles, where he opened Matsuhisa in Beverly Hills.
Matsuhisa became an instant success, winning many awards for the chef and his new-style Japanese cuisine. Matsuhisa remains one of L.A.'s top restaurants. In 1994 Matsuhisa made his next move, one that was to bring him international acclaim. In partnership with restaurateur Drew Nieporent and actor Robert DeNiro, he opened Nobu in New York City.
It was another success for the affable Matsuhisa. Nobu London came next. And now there is Nobu Las Vegas at the Hard Rock hotel, where at long last I can have the ultimate Japanese meal whenever I want one.
Nobu opened without any fanfare just one week ago, yet when I dined there this week it was filled with locals, all of whom kept coming to my table to tell me how happy they were that Nobu is here.
Why is this restaurant so enticing? Because everything from the food to the service to the decor is top notch. There's an energy here that is almost palpable.
After reading the menu my dining partner and I opted for the Omakase -- Chef's Choice dinner ($70 and up). We wanted to taste as many dishes as possible in one sitting. This is the way to do it.
Most of the dishes we shared can be ordered from the a la carte menu.
Our tasting began with a monkfish liver pate topped with osetra caviar sitting in a shallow pool of sweet mustard sauce. The unctuous pate was like velvet, and the mild sweetness of the sauce mingled well with the gentle saltiness of the caviar filling. This, of course, is a Nobu original. There are many more.
Sahimi salad was another inspired dish. Three perfect slices of seared yellowtail and other tuna sat atop a savory dressing. On the side, a handful of leafy sprouts; behind the fish as a prop, one perfect leaf and a coil of finely shredded daikon radish. Sushi chefs take pride in the way they slice the fish. The grain of the tuna was fully appreciated by us before it was devoured.
Another Nobu specialty made with Kobe beef is not on the menu because the beef is not always available, but it's worth asking for. On a square of Nori (seaweed used to wrap sushi) sat four small slices of Kobe beef in a sauce made of sesame and olive oils. Strewn over the beef were toasty brown, house-dried garlic chips. Delighted with the rich beef and its superb flavor, I would have been content to end our meal at this point.
There was more. Crunchy, soft shell crab, tempura style, served in a bowl, and the Nobu signature black cod with miso. I'd tasted the cod at a James Beard dinner and still remembered the silky taste of the fish and the simple, dramatic presentation -- one perfect piece of miso-glazed rock cod perched like a rare jewel on a brilliant green bamboo leaf.
This time the chef had pulled up the ends of the leaf to make an open-sided package, presenting it like a precious gift. It was so lovely. The cod was as good as I so fondly remembered.
Our sushi plate -- nigiri sushi and a hand roll filled with shrimp and asparagus in a spicy aioli mayonnaise -- a zesty bit of fusion -- came at the end of the meal rather than at the beginning. With it was a small bowl of red miso soup and Asari clams. Nobu advised that we eat the sushi and the soup together. A felicitous joining of hot and cold.
For dessert we expected the usual fresh fruit. There was seasonal fresh fruit, but it was topped with three mochi rice cakes filled with coffee, vanilla and green tea ice cream. The coffee was my favorite, not quite as sweet as the other flavors. A strawberry-rhubarb spring roll with a scoop of creme fraiche ice cream was a delight. The tart filling and the rich ice cream were a sensuous match.
So was the pineapple ceviche tart with caramel ice cream. The pastry on the tart fractured like glass at the touch of the fork; it was crisp, yet so delicate.
The a la carte menu includes: sushi, sashimi and tempura ($1-$9.50 -- two piece minimum); cold dishes ($6-market price) such as the sashimi salad; a variety of kushiyaki -- two skewers, $6-$9; a number of special hot dishes ($8-market price); soups and salads ($3.50-$13); and a variety of entrees. Included in the price, $22-$25.50, are miso soup and rice.
With our dinner we enjoyed an easy-to-drink cold sake. Nobu features a variety of imported sakes that are exclusive to the restaurants. The wine list includes bottles at prices from $20. Wines and champagnes by the glass are $8-$21.
Nobu, a delicious Japanese adventure, is a welcome addition to our burgeoning restaurant scene.
Dinner hours are 6-11 p.m., Monday through Saturday. Reservations are a must. Call 693-5090.
Short orders
Beer Festival at Summerlin: The third annual Las Vegas International Beer Festival takes place Saturday and Sunday at Bruce Trent Park in Summerlin. More than 130 micro brews and imported beers are included in this all-day event. Tickets ($20 for one day, $30 for a two-day pass) can be purchased at ETM outlets in Vons stores and at the Galleria mall. For additional info, call Alex Shelton at Elmore Sports -- 798-8345.
Ugly contest for Dad: Any dad who brings in an old or ugly tie to Krispy Kreme Doughnuts through June 25 can exchange the unsightly neck piece for a free doughnut and enter to win Krispy Kreme's second annual Ugly Tie Contest. All ties will be displayed at Krispy Kreme. After the contest, ties in good condition will be donated to a local charity. The grand prize winner will receive a year's supply of Krispy Kremes -- 52 dozen.
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