Columnist Muriel Stevens: Bacio Organico's organic Italian food is supremely satisfying

There are many organic restaurants across the country," Bacio Organico co-owner Dolores "Dee" Ferrari said, "but there is only one strictly Italian organic: ours."

Bacio Organico, on Desert Inn Road (formerly Vesuvio), is the brainchild of the Ferrari family's friend and partner, actor/producer Chris Penn.

It's a terrific idea. For a city our size we have very few certified organic restaurants, especially ones with menus that satisfy both carnivores and vegetarians.

Bacio's lighting could be improved, but the decor is pleasant, the family welcoming and gracious, and the food is wonderful.

All of the products used here are certified organic. Buying certified foods is more expensive, yet the menu prices are moderate and the portions are large.

When I dined there recently, my dining companion and I took our time ordering. We wanted to see the food as it was delivered to other tables. It looked good, and it was.

We shared a Bacio salad ($8.95), a generous mix of red and green romaine, spring mix and spinach with tiny yellow and red pear-shaped tomatoes, onions, blood orange segments and walnuts. The chef had thoughtfully divided the salad in the kitchen.

Delicate crepes wrapped the ricotta cheese and mozzarella-filled manicotti ($12). Simply delicious.

Joe Pignatella, the former owner, was known for his chicken Vesuvio. It was one of my favorite dishes. Joe gave the recipe to Chef Robert Angelo Baretta (Dee's son) who makes a tasty chicken Vesuvio clone ($14) with a few of his own touches. The potatoes so pivotal to the dish are crisp and garlicky; the herb-crusted chicken, fragrant and tender.

Everything at Bacio Organico, from the pasta to the bread, is homemade. The Italian sausage is made by Chef Robert and his dad, Mario.

The lentil soup is made with a vegetable base. Every day there is a special antipasto. When I dined there, the day's antipasto was a heaping plate of greens, Gorgonzola cheese, real Parma ham, asparagus, roasted peppers, hard-cooked eggs and grilled zucchini, topped with large shrimp and a drizzle of reduced balsamic vinegar. It was more than enough for two.

Daily specials are listed on a board.

In addition to the salads ($5.95-$8.95) the menu features a selection of hot and cold antipasti ($6-$11), pastas ($9-$18), chicken ($14-$18), seafood ($18-market price) and a few veal preparations ($21) -- upon request the chef will prepare veal Francaise, piccata or Parmigiana ($18). Grilled meats -- filet mignon and a veal or pork chop ($19-$21) -- are served with garlic mashed potatoes and a vegetable medley.

Desserts change daily. The evening I was there Chef Robert and his sous chef and cousin, Michael Guinta, had prepared cream puffs, an Italian Napoleon cake, and fried Italian cookies. They make other Italian desserts when time permits.

At this time there is no bar service, but a wine and liquor license is expected in June.

Dinner hours are 5-11 p.m., daily.

Bacio Organico also serves lunch Monday through Friday 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. -- sandwiches ($6-$8.95) and pizzas in individual ($8-$9) and large ($14-$19) sizes.

The chef told me that a new expanded menu with a larger vegetarian selection will soon be available. Add whatever you want, Robert, but don't touch the chicken Vesuvio.

Dine here once and you become a member of the family. I watched as Dee warmly greeted customers, most of whom she knew from previous visits. In these times, when dozens of expensive celebrity restaurants are opening almost daily, it's good to know that a small neighborhood eatery with certified organic Italian food and a friendly approach can still succeed.

Short ordersMother's Day: Palace Station, Sunset Station and Texas Station will honor mother with special meals at moderate prices in a variety of their restaurants. There will be a special brunch 10 a.m.-2 p.m. at Costa del Sol in Sunset Station and specials in their other eateries; Texas Station will offer Mother's Day menus in the Stockyard Steakhouse, Laredo del Mar and the San Lorenzo restaurants; The Broiler, Pasta Palace and Guadalajara Bar and Grille at the Palace Station will also celebrate Mother's Day. Reservations can be made at the restaurants; not at the buffets.

Rosemary's Restaurant: Congratulations to Michael Jordan, formerly the executive chef at Emeril's in the MGM Grand, who is opening Rosemary's Restaurant at 8125 W. Sahara Ave. Rosemary's opens officially on Tuesday for dinner. Lunch and dinner are served Wednesday through Saturday; dinner only on Tuesday; brunch only on Sunday. For reservations or additional information, call 869-2251.

New at Z'Tejas: A weekend Southwestern brunch has been added to the recently opened Z'Tejas Grill at 9560 W. Sahara Ave. in the Village Square at Peccole Ranch. Brunch service begins May 15. This second Z'Tejas location has the same features as the original, including the weekday Happy Hour specials. The brunch is theirs alone. Weekend brunch specials include home-fried potatoes and a choice of muffin ($6.75-$9.95); Enchiladas and breakfast quesadilla are $6.95. A bloody Mary, mimosa or screwdriver are $2.95. Z'Tejas is open every day for lunch and dinner 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; until 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. For reservations, call 638-0610.

Ostrich, anyone? Spring Mountain Ostrich Ranch, in association with the Ostrich Barn, will host a tasting of dishes starring ostrich meat for chefs, restaurant owners and media types in the Pegasus Room at Alexis Park on Monday. Dubbed the "Meat of the 21st Century" by its promoters, ostrich is lower in fat and cholesterol than other red meats. It is also more expensive, but if ostrich goes mainstream, the price should drop.

Smoke free: Sammy's California Pizza at 6500 W. Sahara Ave., features a smoke-free environment every day. Open for lunch and dinner, Sammy's hours are 11 a.m.-10 p.m. weekdays; 11 a.m.-11 p.m., weekends. Delivery is available through Waiters-on-Wheels (735-6325). For take-out orders, call 227-6000.

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