Cooking for children need not be humdrum or tasteless

Babies don't come with instructions, a wise mother once said. She could have added that they're not so easy to feed, either.

That's why Annabel Karmel's "First Meals" (DK Publishing, $16.95) is such a good tool for parents who worry about what's the right thing to do to keep their children healthy and happy.

Karmel supplies strategies for reluctant eaters and gives nutritional guidelines and aids in menu planning.

The 150 recipes were developed for each stage of a child's growth from ages 6-9 months, through the toddler years up to the age of 5.

Karmel says that her goal was "to insure that parents would give their baby the best nutritional start in life while guarding against future eating difficulties. When it comes to the health and happiness of their child, I think that all parents will agree that only the very best will do."

This is an enchanting book with photographs that are as delicious as Karmel's recipes.

Karmel is a national celebrity in her native England for her series of books on child nutrition. She is a trained Cordon Bleu cook, something parents will appreciate and,if the kids are smart, they'll quickly learn to appreciate a mom who cooks the Karmel way.

Baby's Bolognese1 Tbs vegetable oil

2 Tbs finely chopped onion

1 Tbs finely chopped celery

2 Tbs grated carrots

1/4 lb lean ground beef

1/2 tsp tomato paste

2 tomatoes peeled, seeded and chopped

1/3 c. unsalted chicken stock

1 1/2 oz spaghetti1. Heat the oil in a pan, add the onions and celery, and saute for 3-4 minutes. Add the grated carrots and cook for 2 minutes.

2. Add the ground beef and stir until browned. Stir in the tomato paste, tomatoes and stock. Bring the mixture to a boil, reduce the heat, cover and cook for 10-15 minutes, or until the meat is cooked through.

3. Meanwhile, bring a pot of water to a boil, add the spaghetti, and cook until soft, about 10 minutes. Drain and chop into small pieces. Transfer the bolognese sauce to a blender and puree to a fairly smooth, uniform texture before combining it with the pasta.

Tip:Babies sometimes find the chewy texture of red meat unpleasant, so I like to puree this sauce in a blender before serving it.

For infants 9-12 months. Preparation time 10 minutes; cooking time 35 minutes. Suitable for freezing sauce only. Rich source of beta-carotene, folic acid, niacin, protein, vitamin B12, and zinc. Makes 6 portions

Homemade Ice Pops

8 oz fresh or frozen summer fruits (such as strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, pitted cherries, or blackberries)

2 Tbs confectioners' sugar, sieved

2/3 c. low-sugar grape drink

1 1/4 c. raspberry or strawberry yogurt

2 c. fresh fruit juice (such as orange or pineapple)1. Put the summer fruits in a pot with the sugar and cook over low heat for a few minutes, until soft and mushy. Puree in a blender, stir in the grape drink, then strain through a sieve. Set aside to cool.

2. Pour the mixture into 10-12 pop molds, filling them about a third full, and freeze. When the first layer is set, pour in yogurt to a depth of 1 inch and freeze. Once this layer is frozen, pour in the fresh juice almost to the top and place the cover with its stick over each pop. Freeze again.

3. When ready to eat, run the mold under hot water for a few seconds to loosen the pops.

Variation: Put a strawberry slice into each of 12 molds. Mix 3 3/4 c. strained freshly squeezed orange juice with 1 1/2 c. pineapple juice or exotic fruit juice. Add the strained juice of 6 passion fruit. Pour into the molds, cover, and freeze.

For babies 18 months-2 years. Preparation time 3-4 hours, including freezing time. Rich source of vitamin C.

Tip: Adding a slice of fruit or a fresh raspberry before pouring in the juice can look very attractive. Makes 12 pops (or 10 if using larger molds).

(There is one food that children are almost guaranteed to like: ice pops. These pops are made with ingrdients that are actually good for your child: pureed fruits, yogurt, and fresh fruit juices. A 3-tier pop looks great, but you can use a single fruit flavor with the juice of your choice.)Finger Picking Chicken

& Potato Balls1/4 lb potatoes, chopped

1 c. chopped parsnips

3 Tbs vegetable oil

1/2 small onion, finely chopped

1 carrot, grated

1/4 boneless chicken breast, cut into chunks

1 Tbs butter

Flour for coating(Mashed potatoes and parsnips give these balls a soft texture and a hint of sweetness, and they are just the right size for picking up and nibbling.)

1. Put the potatoes and parsnips in a pan, cover with water, bring to a boil, then simmer, covered, for 12-15 minutes or until tender.

2. Meanwhile, heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a skillet, add the onion and carrot, and saute for 4-5 minutes. Add the chicken and continue to saute for about 10 minutes or until cooked through.

3. Drain the potatoes and parsnips and mash with half the butter until smooth. Finely chop the chicken, onion, and carrot in a food processor and mix with the mashed vegetables.

4. Form the mixture into about 24 walnut-size balls. Spread the flour on a plate and coat the balls. Heat the remaining oil and butter in a skillet, add the meatballs and saute until golden.

For infants 12-18 months. Preparation time 10 minutes; cooking; 40 minutes. Suitable for freezing. Rich source of beta-carotene, folic acid, and protein. Makes 8 portions.

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