Wednesday, May 26, 1999 | 12:07 p.m.
Ribs, succulent, mouthwatering ribs. How to cook ribs is a much debated subject.
Stop the debate. A new cookbook by Hugh Carpenter and Teri Sandison, "The Great Ribs Book" (Ten Speed Press, $14.95), supplies everything you ever wanted to know about this juicy subject.
Carpenter and Sandison (a husband-and-wife team) have co-authored eight cookbooks, all of them wonderful. Hugh has his own cooking school in Napa Valley, Calif., where tens of thousands of student have studied with this popular teacher.
Classic barbecued ribs, or ribs rubbed and glazed, smoked or braised, are all found here.
Never, never parboil ribs, Carpenter says, as the flavors of the marinade or rub won't penetrate.
Buy the meatiest ribs you can find, then cook them a la Hugh and Carpenter.
EquipmentA gas- or charcoal-fired grill large enough to hold a side of ribs is essential. You'll also need to have a tight-fitting lid to trap in all the smoky flavor.
Another essential piece of equipment is a "rib rack." By standing the ribs upright in the rack, you can cook many sides of ribs at the same time. Additionally, if the heat is a little too high, only the boned ends of the ribs become scorched.
We also recommend spring-loaded tongs, heat-proof mitts to protect your hands, an oven thermometer to place on the grill, and basting brushes made with natural hair (not nylon, which melts).
Best Chinese
Baby Back Ribs2 sides pork baby back ribs or your favorite type of ribs
Chinese Barbecue Sauce
1 c. hoisin sauce
1/2 c. plum sauce
1/3 c. oyster sauce
1/4 c. wine vinegar
1/4 c. honey
2 Tbs dark soy sauce
2 Tbs dry sherry or Chinese rice wine
1 Tbs dark sesame oil
1 Tbs Asian chili sauce
1/2 tsp five-spice powder
1 Tbs grated or minced orange zest
10 cloves garlic, finely minced
1/4 c. finely minced ginger
1/4 c. finely minced green onion, green and white partsRemove the membrane from the underside of the ribs. Then place the ribs in a rectangular dish or baking pan.
To make the sauce, combine all the sauce ingredients and stir well. Makes 3 cups.
Coat the ribs evenly on both sides with the marinade. Marinate the ribs refrigerated for at least 15 minutes. For more flavor, marinate for up to 8 hours.
To grill the ribs, if using a gas barbecue, preheat to medium (325 F). If using charcoal or wood, prepare a fire. Occasionally during cooking baste the ribs with extra sauce, stopping 15 minutes before removing the ribs from the grill.
Quick-grilling directions:
If using a gas barbecue, preheat it to medium (325 F). If using charcoal or wood, prepare a fire. When the coals or wood are ash covered, push them to the outside of the grill. Place a pan of water in the bottom of the grill among the coals, and cover the coals with the cooking grate. Place a rib rack on the cooking grate and add the ribs. Alternatively, brush the cooking grate with a flavorless cooking oil, such as safflower oil, and then lay the ribs, meaty side up, in the center of the grill. Regulate the heat so it remains at a medium temperature. Occasionally during cooking, baste the ribs with extra marinade. Grill the ribs until the meat begins to shrink from the ends of the rib bones. Approximate grilling times: pork baby back ribs and country-style spareribs, 75 minutes; spareribs and beef ribs, 90 minutes; lamb ribs, 40 minutes.
To serve, cut each side of ribs in half, into 3 sections, or into individual ribs. Transfer to a heated serving platter or 4 heated dinner plates and serve at once. Serves 4.
Ribs With Fiery
Mango Marinade6 lb beef ribs or your favorite ribs
Fiery Mango Marinade
1 large fresh ripe mango
2 Tbs chipotle chiles in adobo sauce
1/4 c. ketchup
1/4 c. tequila
1/4 c. freshly squeezed lime juice
2 Tbs oyster sauce
2 Tbs honey
6 cloves garlic, finely minced
1/4 c. finely minced ginger
1/4 c. chopped cilantro sprigsRemove the membrane from the underside of the ribs. Then place the ribs in a rectangular dish or baking pan.
To make the marinade, peel the mango and cut the flesh away from the seed. Combine the mango flesh and chipotle chiles in a food processor fitted with a metal blade and puree. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and combine with the remaining marinade ingredients. Makes 2 cups.
Coat the ribs evenly on both sides with half the marinade. Marinate the ribs refrigerated for at least 15 minutes. For more flavor, marinate for up to 8 hours. Remove the remaining marinade to serve as a sauce for the ribs.
To grill the ribs, if using a gas barbecue, preheat to medium (325 F). If using charcoal or wood, prepare a fire. Occasionally during cooking, baste the ribs with extra marinade, stopping 15 minutes before removing the ribs from the grill.
To serve, cut each side of ribs in half, into 3 sections, or into individual ribs. Transfer to a heated serving platter or 4 heated dinner plates and serve at once accompanied by the reserved sauce. Serves 4.
Southwest Chile
Barbecued Ribs2 sides pork baby back ribs or your favorite ribs
Chile-Fruit Barbecue Sauce
2 ancho chiles
4 large vine-ripened tomatoes, seeded and chopped
1 c. chopped mango flesh, from about 2 mangos
1/4 c. chopped roasted red bell peppers, bottled variety
5 cloves garlic, finely minced
1/4 c. minced ginger
4 serrano chiles, finely minced, including the seeds
1 Tbs grated and minced orange skin
1 c. freshly squeezed orange juice
1/2 c. wine vinegar
1/4 c. thin soy sauce
1/4 c. honey
2 tsp curry powder
1/2 tsp ground clovesRemove the membrane from the underside of the ribs. Then place the ribs in a rectangular dish or baking pan.
To make the sauce, place the ancho chiles in a bowl and cover with boiling water. Place a small saucer on the chiles to submerge them. After 30 minutes, stem the chiles and wash away the seeds. Save 1/2 cup of the ancho water. Place the ancho chiles in a food processor fitted with a metal blade, add 1/2 cup ancho water, and puree. Add all the remaining sauce ingredients and puree. Transfer to a 3-quart saucepan. Bring the sauce to a boil, and allow it to boil until the sauce reduces to 3 cups, about 20 minutes. Then allow the sauce to cool to room temperature.
Coat the ribs evenly on both sides with half the sauce. Marinate the ribs refrigerated for at least 15 minutes. For more flavor, marinate for up to 8 hours. Reserve the remaining sauce to serve as a sauce for the ribs.
To grill the ribs, if using a gas barbecue, preheat to medium (325 F). If using charcoal or wood, prepare a fire. Occasionally during cooking, baste the ribs with the marinade, stopping 15 minutes before removing the ribs from the grill.
To serve, cut each side of the ribs in half, into 3 sections, or into individual ribs. Transfer to a heated serving platter or 4 heated dinner plates and serve at once accompanied by the reserved sauce. Serves 4.
archive
