Friday, Feb. 18, 2000 | 9:13 a.m.
Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at [email protected] or 259-4080.
When invitations arrived informing Las Vegas Chaine members that renowned Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa would create a special dinner for them at his Nobu restaurant in the Hard Rock hotel, it sold out immediately.
At Nobu's request, only 80 could attend. The lucky ones responded posthaste; those who delayed went on a list of members waiting for a cancellation. Chaine Bailli (President) Larry Ruvo pleaded and cajoled and managed to raise the number slightly. No easy task. Like most fine chefs Nobu knows the risks involved in stretching the limits of a culinary staff, even one as talented as his.
Why does everyone want to dine at a Nobu restaurant? Because the master chef has raised the cuisine of his native land, Japan, to a vibrant new level.
Nobuyuki "Nobu" Matsuhisa became an expert in the art of sushi by the time he was 20. In Tokyo he interned at some of the finest sushi bars. But he wanted more than the unalterable restrictions of traditional Japanese cuisine. A classically trained chef, he nevertheless had his own ideas about Japanese food.
To put them in play he traveled to Lima, Peru, where there was a sizable Japanese community.
Nobu opened a sushi bar where he fused Peru's indigenous ingredients with those of his native country. To traditional Japanese food he introduced garlic and chile oil and other ingredients never before used. The results were wonderful. Unorthodox and original, he soon became known for his adventurous creations.
Having made his case for this bold new fusion cuisine he moved on, opening restaurants in Argentina, Japan and Alaska. Eventually his thirst for travel brought him to Los Angeles, where his Matsuhisa restaurant opened in 1987.
But Los Angeles was just the beginning. With partners Robert De Niro and entrepreneur Drew Nieporent, Nobu opened Nobu New York. There are Nobu restaurants in London, Tokyo, Malibu and Aspen (Matsuhisa), Los Angeles (Ubon) and Las Vegas.
Nobu Las Vegas is not large; it is intimate and inviting. A handsome sushi bar fills one wall. Except when Nobu is hosting a private dinner, the sushi bar is always busy.
For our dinner the room had been turned into one big party room. All of the normal seating and decor had been removed to better accommodate the ever-growing number of guests.
Before dinner there was a tasting of assorted premium sakis, seven in all. Included were unfiltered saki, dessert saki and the creme de la creme, milky white saki made from highly polished rice -- only the heart of the rice is used to make this outstanding saki. Each saki was a different style. There was even one that was unpasteurized. Also served was a sparkling Paul Goerg Brut Millisime 1992.
The peripatetic Nobu had returned to Las Vegas for the Chaine dinner. Throughout the evening he spoke to guests and offered insight into his sophisticated and unique Japanese fare. No explanations were needed. Dinner was exceptional.
First came a monkfish liver pate (ankimo) with osetra caviar and a mustard-vinegar-miso sauce. Smooth and silky, the pate was glorious. Next: seared salmon sashimi atop a red tomato slice. The third course was both intriguing and delicious -- soba risotto with mushrooms, grilled scallops and fresh truffles. Soba Goma, a kasha-type (buckwheat groats) grain, was the risotta. Only the very heart of the grain was used.
Nobu's justifiably acclaimed black cod with miso glaze came next. This is a dish I've ordered many times. I never tire of the delicacy of the black cod and the counterpoint sweet glaze.
After the cod a family-style platter of sushi was set on each table. With chopsticks at the ready, we demolished the marvelous sushi assortment in minutes.
Wines poured with each course were: Francis Coppola Diamond Chardonnay 1998, Caymus Conundrum 1996, Ironstone Chardonnay 1996, Chateau La Nerthe Chateau Neuf-du-Pape Blanc 1998 and, with the sushi -- Josmeyer Gewurtztraminer Les Folastries 1997.
Dessert was a crisp apple tarte with sesame-glazed walnuts set over a round of creamy vanilla ice cream. A delectable finish that was enhanced by the winning dessert wine -- Chappelet Moelleux 1997.
Short Orders
Gourmet Games: A record crowd of food and wine enthusiasts are expected to attend the second annual Gourmet Games Saturday at Caesars Palace in the Palace Tower convention area. The delicious event is a fund-raiser for the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation and the Muriel Stevens Scholarship Fund. The CF Foundation has been lauded as a leader among nonprofit agencies. This highly efficient agency contributes 90 percent of every dollar raised to patient care and research. CF is as yet uncurable. Only ongoing research can help change the lives of the young victims. The scholarship fund assists needy students attending UNLV's hotel college.
Many noted chefs and restaurants will supply an endless variety of foods, and Southern Wine & Spirits will supply the beverages, alcoholic and non. Culinary competitions will add to excitement. Tickets are available at all Ticketmaster venues. Reserved tickets ($100) give early admission to the private tasting at 11:30 a.m. At 12:30 p.m. doors open to general ticket holders. General tickets are priced at $35; for seniors and students, $25.
Breakfast at Star Canyon: Stephan Pyles Star Canyon Southwestern restaurant at the Venetian is now serving breakfast Monday through Saturday, 8-11 a.m. Entree prices range from $7 to $10. Among the savory and sweet offerings are: huevos rancheros, a classic Texas omelet, dried cherry scones and orange-canela sticky buns. Of course, there's buttermilk biscuits smothered in cream gravy and a host of other breakfast specialties. What a start to a day: breakfast at Star Canyon.
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