Friday, May 12, 2000 | 9:09 a.m.
iel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping column appears Wednesdays. Reach her at [email protected] or 259-4080.
For foodies there is nothing more exciting than an epicurean extravaganza, so when the James Beard Foundation benefit dinners take place at the Rio they're always sold out.
The most recent one, hosted by Napa's own celebrity chef, the irrepressible Jean-Louis Palladin, was extraordinary. I know I say that each time I attend one of these dinners, but they just keep getting better and better.
This was the eighth Beard dinner at the Rio. The resort not only hosts the dinners, but makes generous contributions to the Beard Foundation for support of the culinary arts. This is in addition to the money raised from the dinners.
The chefs who come here are mostly a fun-loving lot. They party with Jean-Louis the night before the dinner, cook all day, and are always available to chat with the guests and pose for endless photos.
To just describe the menu does not do justice to this dinner. I can try to share the subtlety of Chef Thierry Ranturean's (Rover's, Seattle) scrambled eggs presented in an egg shell with lime creme fraiche and white sturgeon caviar, but such bliss is not easily conveyed. Or the Taylor Bay scallops with uni (sea urchin) and mustard oil from Rocco DiSpirito of the Union Pacific in New York, so beautiful, so delicious.
Marcus Samuelsson (Aquavit, N.Y.) blew us away with his Hudson Valley foie gras ganache and apple-morel tart; so did the husband-wife team of Michael Smith and Debbie Gold (The American Restaurant, Kansas City) with their warm curried Maine lobster with hearts of palm. Picholine (N.Y.) Chef Terence Brennan offered flavorful black sea bass with black truffles and ethereal cauliflower mousseline. Who knew the common cauliflower could be so elegant?
Three-star Michelin chef Marc Haeberlin of Auberge De L'ill, France, prepared a rich savory dish seldom seen here -- lamb crepinette (hashed lamb) with wild mushrooms and spinach. It was a special honor to have the noted chef cook with the American chefs. The Haeberlin family's Auberge De L'ill in the small village of Illhausern in Alsace attracts diners from all over the world.
With each course came a different bread. The Rio's bakery chief, Brenda Hitchins, supplied the marvelous variety. It was Brenda who campaigned to get the open-hearth ovens that dominate the Rio bakery. These ovens are vital to producing the crisp, chewy crust and tender interior of European-type breads.
How could a dessert compete with such splendid courses? Hubert Keller, chef/owner of the venerable San Francisco restaurant Fleur De Lys, was equal to the challenge. His caramelized saffron brulee with orange and cardamom ice cream was stunning, and delectable. Each bite called for another. With dessert we sipped 1983 Chateau D'Yquem Imperial. This grand Sauternes is in a class of its own.
Rio's Master Sommelier chose an excellent selection of wines to accompany each course: With the hot and cold hors d' oeuvres prepared by Jean-Louis and Michael Ginor, owner of Hudson Valley Foie Gras, Moet et Chandon Cuvee Dom Perignon; with dinner: Pavillion Blanc de Chateau Margaux, 1997 Vincent Girardin Meursault, 1985 Moet et Chandon Cuvee Dom Perignon Rose en Magnum, 1197 Alban Vineyards Viognier, 1996 Yarra Yerling Underhill and 1994 Dominus Estate Christian Moueix en Magnum.
Service was outstanding. It takes great skill to prepare and serve so many complex dishes at once. Service was smooth and without any delays.
The public is welcome at these dinners, but be aware that Beard Foundation members usually fill the room. I'll keep you posted about the next dinner.
More Mother's Day dining: Caesars Palace will offer lavish champagne breakfast and brunch buffets at the Palatium buffet and Cafe Roma. At Cafe Roma breakfast will be available from 7-11:30 a.m. ($14.95). Many additional food items will be added for the champagne brunch, noon-4 p.m. ($19.95). A Mother's Day dinner buffet ($19.95) will be offered 6-10 p.m. Prices are half-price for youngsters 4-12; free for children 3 and under. Palatium festive Mother's Day buffets begin at 8:30 a.m. ($21.99). Breakfast fare is available until 3 p.m. Terrazza Italian restaurant will offer an a la carte brunch menu from 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. All other Caesars restaurants will offer their regular menus.
Station properties Palace, Boulder, Texas and Sunset Stations will give Mom special treatment in many of their eateries. Included are Sunset Station's Guadalajara Bar & Grille, Costa del Sol and Capri. Sonoma Cellar will serve a special Mother's Day brunch ($22.99), 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Dinner is offered, 5-9 p.m. The buffet and 24-hour cafe will also feature Mother's Day specials. Boulder, Texas and Palace Stations will feature similar Mother's Day options. Check with your favorite Station for more information.
Food & Beverage Directors: Former Mayor Jan Laverty Jones will be honored as Woman of the Year and will receive the coveted Auturi Award from the Food and Beverage Directors Association of Nevada at the ninth annual awards dinner at the Tropicana, May 26.
Spiedini restaurant owner and Master Chef Gustav Mauler will receive the culinary achievement award. FBAN is "dedicated to making Las Vegas a better community." And that it does. Over the past eight years the association has contributed more than $200,000 in scholarships to UNLV, Community College of Southern Nevada and Vo-Tech High School. It also supports Opportunity Village, Taste of the Nation and Lifeline. Dinner tickets, $175, can be purchased by calling Scott Ringwood at the Tropicana, 739-3560. The food is always great, the reception and silent auction, much fun. Call now for advance reservations.
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