Savvy wine buys: Vieilles Vignes '99 Chablis

Chablis has gotten a bad name in this country, where it is generally an inexpensive, mass-produced wine of dubious quality. In France, however, where Chablis refers to a region, and wines thus labeled are 100 percent Chardonnay, they are extremely fine, as this choice, a Robert Katcher selection, demonstrates. This is a clear, straw-colored wine with great depth. The only drawback is a minimum of sediment at the bottom of the bottle (usually found in fine red wines, occasionally in whites).

Available at Las Vegas Wine Company, $20.99.

-- Max Jacobson

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