Savvy wine buys: Benzinger '98 Reserve Chardonnay

Chardonnays have fallen out of favor with the wine in-crowd in recent years, for being too oaky, too pricey and too prevalent. Still, and all, they retain their loyal fans, who line up to drink wines such as this one. Benzinger's philosophy is to reflect the terroir -- the land -- and this one has a pedigree, the rich Carneros region of Sonoma County. The reserve distinction means that it has spent longer in new oak barrels, and indeed, this is a toasty, medium-weight wine with hints of apple, fig, vanilla and earthy grace notes, a fine example of the genre.

Available at Las Vegas Wine Company, $18.99.

-- Max Jacobson

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