Friday, June 13, 2003 | 9:38 a.m.
Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or [email protected].
Long before chef Jean-Marie Josselin opened 8-0-8 at Caesars Palace he was the consultant for the Second Street Grill at the Fremont.
Hiring a French chef who had made his name in Hawaii was a bold move for the longtime local favorite. This week Second Street Grill celebrated its 10th anniversary by re-creating the menu served opening night. Many of the guests had attended the opening-night party 10 years ago.
Second Street Grill was one of the first to offer contemporary American cuisine with a strong Pacific Rim influence and European touches. It has maintained its original conception of quality and service and continues to be a staple for locals and downtown visitors.
Josselin brought with him a talented young female chef, Rachel Breen. There were few female chefs at the time. At the beginning she was the restaurant's sauce chef, but it quickly became apparent that she had the skills and talent to become the restaurant's lead chef.
Rachel, while once inspired by one of Hawaii's most renowned restaurateurs, has made the Second Street Grill her own by developing a repertoire of island-inspired dishes merged with other cuisines. Her grilled Mongolian rack of lamb served with stir-fried vegetables, pesto mashed potatoes and a Cabernet hoisin-plum sauce is memorable ($29.95), and so are the pan-fried crab cakes ($14.95) and the savory cioppino ($25.95). And I'd never turn down the rich roasted duck with blackberry glaze ($22.95) or the succulent "lollypop" veal chop ($29.95). Portions are generous.
Diners enjoy this intimate eatery for many reasons:
Little has changed since it opened in 1993; food servers Tony Muro, Becky Jones and Gloria Ford have been there since the inception, and it's always comforting to diners to find the same staff in place at a favorite eatery.
Desserts ($6.25 each) are lovely. Have the trio of creme brulee -- Tahitian vanilla, coconut and chocolate -- or the macadamia cheesecake with raspberry coulis, simply delectable.
There is a small, fairly priced wine list featuring wines from Clos du Bois, Ferrari Carano, Sterling, Fetzer and Kendall Jackson.
With its convivial atmosphere and the history of the Fremont, dinner at Second Street Grill is a delicious choice. Happy 10th anniversary.
Second Street Grill hours: Sunday, Monday and Thursday, 6 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. Reservations suggested for weekends.
Father's Day
Dinner at tre with Dad: Tre restaurant at 1050 S. Rampart Blvd. in the Boca Park Center has created a three-course dinner for Father's Day with service from 4 p.m. to 8 p.m. Priced at $38 per person, diners will have a choice of appetizer -- an antipasto platter with meats and all sorts of Italian delights or Manila clams stuffed with pancetta or a classic Caesars salad or minestrone. Entree choices are dad pleasers. Choose from a pan-fried chicken breast stuffed with crab meat or tre's acclaimed braised short ribs or tre's Surf & Turf with filet mignon and shrimp or salmon. Super dessert choices, too -- creme brulee, buttermilk panna cotta, a warm chocolate tart or mille-feuille (puff pastry) with balsamic strawberries and mascarpone cream. Tre is owned by the renowned Maccioni family, who own Le Cirque and Osteria Del Circa in New York and at Bell agio.
Tre's regular dinner hours begin at 5:30 p.m. Happy hour is nightly from 4:30 to 6:30 p.m. A select drink menu is half the regular price; assorted appetizers are $3 each. For reservations or more information, call 946-6200.
Dinner with Dad at Mount Charleston Lodge: Take the scenic drive to the historic Mount Charleston Lodge, and Dad can relax while enjoying a Celebration Barbecue Combo on Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. or Sunday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Priced at $10.25 per person, the combo includes chicken and ribs, baked beans, corn-on-the-cob and dessert. There's lot going on at the lodge, including carriage rides. For a complete rundown, call 872-5408.
Wine dinner at Roy's: One of Hawaii's leading culinary stars, Roy Yamaguchi, will celebrate the first anniversary of Roy's on Flamingo Road with a star-studded cast of chefs joining him in the kitchen Monday. Each will prepare one course of the five-course dinner ($85 per person).
The fourth course, spit-roasted suckling pig, will be cooked in a special roaster placed in the parking lot. Sounds like a bit of high island drama.
Wendy and Michael Jordan, chef/owners of Rosemary's Restaurant and Rosemary's at the Rio, Nobu Executive Chef Peter Woo and Joseph Elevado and Roy's Executive Chef Steve Patovsky will each contribute a course that complements the fine wines from Etude winery. Winemaker Tony Soter will present the various wines. Halo Halo, a funky Hawaiian shaved ice dessert with coconut ice cream and lots of "stuff," should provide a happy ending.
Reservations required. Call 691-2053.
How sweet it is: The Great American Dessert Expo, trade show devoted wholly to the dessert industry is taking on a global aspect with entrants from Australia, Pakistan, Singapore, Saudi Arabia and many other countries. More than 150 exhibitors will show their products July 2-3 at the Las Vegas Convention Center. The Great American Dessert Expo will be held in conjunction the National Pastry Team Championship, the world's most prestigious pastry competition and the World Pastry Forum, featuring pastry seminars and classes for amateurs as well as professionals. It's worth the price of admission just to watch these pros in action and to get to taste the awesome assortment of delectables.
Event Co-Founder Michael Schneider is the president, publisher and editor-in-chief of Chocolatier and Pastry Art & Design magazines. His partner and co-founder, Norman Love, is the former corporate pastry chef of the Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company and is a superb chocolatier. His truffles would weaken the good intentions of any weight-watcher; they're that good. For more information and a schedule of events, call 256-1665.
Short orders
Jasmine at Bellagio: Jasmine at Bellagio is featuring two price-fixed menus in addition to their regular carte. "A Taste of Jasmine" offers guests four courses for $68.88 per person (gratuity and tax not included). Among the menu choices are crispy chicken salad, clams consomme, Maine lobster, prime beef tenderloin, and a choice of desserts from renowned pastry chef Jean-Philippe Maury. "Amer-Canton Classics,"(plus tax and tip) $48.88 per person, includes Cantonese rib and spring roll, Chef Lo's signature hot and sour soup, lemon chicken, spicy prawns, Mongolian beef with wok-fried rice and tropical fruit desserts. For two or more diners. Jasmine offers dinner nightly, 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Reservations are recommended. Call 693-7223.
Price change at Picasso: Prices of the two signature dinners featured at Picasso at Bellagio have changed. The four-course tasting menu is now $85 per person; the five-course degustation menu is $95 per person. The award-winning Picasso stars the memorable Mediterranean coking of Chef Julian Serrano. This gorgeous restaurant is an elegant setting with original artwork by Pablo Picasso and exquisite flower displays. Picasso is open Thursday through Tuesday from 6 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.
Food as art: Rosemary's Restaurant on West Sahara Avenue is introducing the food paintings of Marty Walsh, a graduate of the Art Academy of Cincinnati. She is the winner of many art awards. Her paintings will be on display in the west wing of Rosemary's Restaurant at 8125 W. Sahara Ave. through July 31. An artist's reception will be held on June 22 from 1:30 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. For more information, call Wendy Kveck -- 869-9002.
Green Valley Ranch Station Casino debuts China Spice, Sushi+Sake: Two hot new Asian concepts will debut at Green Valley Ranch Station Casino on June 18. The two eateries will offer fans of Far Eastern cuisine a new take on a popular theme. China Spice will feature two distinct menus -- authentic multi-regional Chinese and a menu of American favorites.
Sushi+Sake offers a wide array of sushi and sashimi and "an exotic array of unusual sakes." A new dining experience with choices galore at moderate prices.
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