Friday, March 28, 2003 | 8:43 a.m.
Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or [email protected].
It was a balmy Saturday evening, a perfect night for a drive, when a friend and I drove to the Ritz-Carlton at Lake Las Vegas in Henderson. We wanted a change of pace and a quiet dinner away from the madding crowds. I'd been to the Ritz-Carlton for the opening event and had attended a tasting for an upcoming Chaine dinner, but had not yet dined at the Medici Cafe.
Medici Cafe is an all-purpose eatery that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Weather permitting, this lovely dining room features both indoor and patio dining.
The breakfast menu offers mostly traditional fare, although the kitchen's commitment to contemporary Mediterranean-style cooking is exciting.
Such dishes as a frittata of portobella mushrooms, zucchini and Taleggio cheese and tomato marmalade ($10) or skillet-baked eggs with wild mushroom ragout on brioche with truffle butter ($12) or crispy Dungeness crab and potato cake with poached eggs and Bearnaise sauce ($13.50) are balanced with the chef's spin on traditional breakfast specialties -- almond pancakes with caramelized bananas and Vermont maple syrup ($9), pecan cinnamon roll French toast with mascarpone whipped cream ($9.50) and house-smoked salmon with a toasted bagel and cream cheese are but a few.
Breakfast and lunch have become very popular with locals, so it would be wise to make a reservation.
The luncheon menu offers soups and salads ($6-$16), pasta, pizzas and sandwiches ($12-$16) entrees ($18-$21) and a fixed price, three-course lunch ($19). Included are a choice salad or French onion soup with Gruyere cheese, penne puttanesca with rock shrimp or a pizza with Roma tomatoes, smoked proscuitto, mozzarella and roasted garlic, and dessert -- espresso bean tiramisu with mini biscotti.
The dinner carte is filled with so many delightful choices. After much discussion (necessary because we like to share) we chose the portobella carpaccio with oven-cured tomatoes, roasted garlic and pine nut truffle vinaigrette ($13) and a tower of yellow organic tomatoes layered with buffalo mozzarella and smoked eggplant garnished with a Parmesan crisp ($11).
Two excellent appetizers. The portobella mushroom was sliced wafer-thin and arranged as if the slices were petals of a flower. In the center, a small salad of frisee. The mellow vinaigrette was perfection.
The more earthy tomato and mozzarella tower was equally delicious and the subject of much discussion. Foodies discuss every nuance, every flavor; it's part of the pleasure of dining. We'd lingered so long over the appetizers we forgot to order the main course. Not once did the waitstaff interrupt us. The bread basket was replaced, water glasses were refilled until finally, we decided: Pan-flashed striped seabass with baby artichokes and pistou sauce for me ($24); cast-iron cooked Pacific salmon with prawns and smoked tomato and pea risotta for my friend ($24).
The presentation was lovely. The crusty skin of the seabass was devoured in three bites. The generous portion of seabass was tender and gently flavored. The salmon was presented in a small, square black cast iron skillet and was perched upon a layer of tasty risotto; the prawns topped the salmon. Each dish had its own distinctive character. It was a delicious, satisfying meal.
Had we opted for meat or poultry, we could have ordered roasted chicken with caramelized root vegetables ($23), or Colorado rack of lamb with eggplant ratatouille ($32), or Angus beef tenderloin ($29), or red wine braised short ribs ($29), or a bone-in New York steak with herbed French fries and watercress salad ($28).
And next time we'll be certain to have the lobster, two ways -- a whole, split Maine lobster, golden chanterelle ragout and potato-lobster pot pie ($34).
Of course, we fretted over dessert. Too many delectable choices, too many temptations. We needn't have bothered.
When the server laid down dessert spoons and forks it was obvious that Medici Cafe chef Jeramy Lieb and pastry chef Patrice Caillot (previously with Le Cirque) had made the decision for us. First came a duet of fruit soups with companion sorbets served in tall sherry glasses.
Then a wave of desserts -- pineapple confit with mango ice cream and a ring of tapioca pudding, warm chocolate cake with caramelized banana and caramel ice cream and a martini glass filled passion fruit panna cotta, lychee ice cream and topped with a mini savarin. The roasted pear with dried apricot compote and Amoretto sabayon was irresistible.
With coffee and tea came tiny macaroons and candies in a tiered glass jar. This is presented to all guests.
Throughout dinner we were entertained by the Nicholas Cole duo. Cole sings and plays piano. Cole has just moved to Southrn Nevada from South Beach, Fla. and appears at Medici Cafe Thursday through Saturday from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. He appears in the lounge Sunday through Monday from 8 p.m. to midnight. The songs he sings and plays are an ideal accompaniment to dinner.
After dinner we walked through the gardens. A pleasant way to end a lovely evening.
There's more. Ritz-Carlton Executive Chef Stephen Marshall oversees all of the food operations and he created the Florentine tea ($22) served daily from 2:30 p.m. to 5 p.m. in the Firenze Lobby Lounge.
Included are sandwiches of proscuitto and figs, egg and sevruga caviar, smoked salmon and cucumber and tomato and buffalo mozzarella and scones with mascarpone cream, lemon curd, gianduja (hazelnut and chocolate cream), jams and marmalade and a variety of Italian cookies and pastries (pastaccini).
The Ritz tea includes all of the above and a glass of champagne ($28). Champagne cocktails and a variety of coffees are available.
A versatile restaurant and many scenic delights are part of the charm of the Ritz-Carlton.
Bellagio and the Aspen Food & Wine Classic: The annual Food & Wine Classic taking place June 14-16 will experience the full impact of Bellagio's celebrity chefs and executive chefs throughout the event. Bellagio has two booths secured for the Grand Tasting Pavilion and is expecting to get a third.
Bellagio chefs attending are Julian Serrano of Picasso, Michael Mina of Aqua, Todd English of Olives, Jean-Georges Vongrichten of Prime, Jean-Philippe Maury, Bellagio pastry chef and Tony Abou-Ganim, Bellagio master mixologist. Tasting events occur each day and all of Bellagio's best will be involved.
In addition, there are two restaurant trade tastings, exclusive to the 600 members of the restaurant trade attending. Bellagio chefs will interact with the guests and make a food presentation. Jean-Georges Vongrichten will host a cooking seminar, Signature Dishes, on June 13; Todd English will sit on a star chef panel for the seminar "A Star is Born: The Power of the Restaurant Review."
Panelists will debate the restaurant review star system, online postings and the relevance of the restaurant critic in America today.
Bellagio may have set a new trend in hospitality marketing by presenting their own celebrity chefs and programs at such a major food and wine event.
Keeping up with Puck: It may only seem like Wolfgang Puck is the live whirlwind of the restaurant industry, but with such Las Vegas partners as Corporate Executive Chef David Robins, the peripatetic Puck is free to do such events as the Academy Awards Governors Ball reception and dinner and is able to dash hither and yon promoting his many products and restaurants.
Meanwhile in Las Vegas, Robins has opened a Wolfgang Puck concession near the new Colosseum theater. "Concession food has come a long way from being hot dogs and popcorn," said Robins. "Puck's take raises concession food to a new level."
And so it does with such offerings as sushi, sandwiches, chocolates and desserts. A Black Forest ham and Gruyere sandwich with honey mustard on sourdough bread is $8. Desserts ($4 to $10) include chocolate-covered strawberries, assorted truffles, chocolate biscotti and giant fudge brownies and blondies. All prices include sales tax. Having eaten concession food at other venues I feel free to say that these prices are fair and it's a sure bet that the food will be delicious.
Fleming's hosts wine dinner: Fleming's at 8721 W. Charleston Blvd. is showcasing Robert Mondavi Winery District Wines on Wednesday. Ticket price is $70 per person and includes passed hors d'oeuvres and a three-course dinner and dessert and five wines. Seating is limited. Call 838-4774 for reservations.
Coming to the dogs: Home delivery is going to the dogs with the opening a Pet Pantry International franchise in Las Vegas. PPI is headquartered in Carson City and has more than 70 franchises nationwide and two international markets. Pet Pantry is a different kind of home delivery service, providing a variety of natural, custom-blended pet foods and treats.
Delivery service is professional and free, said Kathy Totel, franchise holder. "Our mission is to provide a pet food that is fresh and nutritionally excellent, combined with the added value of free home delivery."
According to Totel, the products are competitively priced and are backed with a 100-percent guarantee.
Foods are delivered by an interesting bin service arrangement. For more information call Totel at the Pet Pantry, 395-6777 or log on to thepetpantry.com.
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