Friday, May 16, 2003 | 8:38 a.m.
Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or [email protected].
"One Cool Night," the theme for the annual Alzheimer's event at Postrio at The Venetian on May 7 benefitting "Keep Memory Alive," The Lou Ruvo Alzheimer's Center, Dr. Leon Thal and the Neurosciences Education and Research Foundation and The Las Vegas Alzheimer's Association, raised $2.5 million.
Co-chairs Donna Baldwin and Michael Severino were tireless in their efforts to provide a smashing event.
The benefit's founders Larry Ruvo, Bobby Baldwin, Kenny Epstein and Maddy Graves were supported from the beginning by celebrity Chef Wolfgang Puck. The first dinners took place at Puck's Spago and then moved to Postrio at The Venetian. Another culinary superstar, Alain Ducasse, owner of acclaimed restaurants in France and New York, created three of the five courses.
When I arrived Puck was in the office off the kitchen with managing partner Tom Kaplan. Ducasse had not yet arrived. Dressed in his whites, Puck was relaxed and in his usual good humor. When Ducasse arrived he was dressed in dazzling custom-made whites that were picture perfect.
Now it was time for the chefs to mingle with the illustrious guests, and off they went.
In the kitchen, all was ready. Corporate Chef/partner of the Puck Fine Dining Group, David Robins, with executive chefs John LaGrone (Postrio), Mark Ferguson (Lupo), Eduardo Perez (Spago), Scott Irestone (Chinois) and key members of their respective staffs had been prepping for two days. The kitchen was so neat and organized. When Puck and Ducasse returned, the action would be non-stop.
Bidding was brisk for the silent auction items. Those determined to win the items of their choice were never far from their hoped-for prize. During the reception a plethora of cocktails and wines were offered along with passed hors d'oeuvres -- 1995 Moet Chandon Dom Perignon, 2000 Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay Reserve and Opus One Proprietary Red Wine made everyone happy, and so did the original cocktails concocted by Francesco Lafranconi.
Bidding was still going on when dinner was announced. All through dinner until the silent bidding closed eager bidders were bouncing back and forth from their tables --hoping to make a final, winning bid.
The first course from Ducasse, chilled spring pea soup (veloute) with a mold of crabmeat and crushed preserved lemons, was a showstopper.
Puck's handmade agnolotti with wild mushrooms and Sonoma goat cheese was another. Delicate steamed black bass, Hong Kong-style, was a flavorful melange with ginger, bok choy and jasmine rice.
Royale of farm-raised chicken in a civet sauce reduction and a chocolate, raspberry and edible gold leaf finale by Ducasse -- "For those who love contrasts," said the chef -- was simple and delectable.
A thin chocolate wafer was lined with rows of fresh plump raspberries garnished with gold leaf and swirled with raspberry coulis. A lovely dinner.
More Alzheimer's: It was good to see esteemed winemaker Robert Mondavi and his wife, Margrit, at the reception. Mondavi will soon celebrate his 90th birthday. He was looking healthy and fit after hip surgery, although still using a cane.
Quick casual at Panera: The opening of Panera, a "quick casual" bakery-cafe at the Galleria Pavilion nearby the Galleria at Sunset mall, added a new bit of lingo to cafe talk. My visit to Panera happened to be on a day when Roger Wagner, who holds the franchise, was there. It was from him that I learned how quick casual differs from fast food. There is a difference: Panera offers real flatware, no plastic utensils; salads are served on china, soups in pottery cups; there are no foam cups; sandwiches are served on lined trays; orders are placed at the counter, and a number is given so the server knows where to bring the food. It's pleasant, efficient and delicious.
My first stop was to the bread and pastry counter. The selection of breads is terrific. Order a sandwich and you have a choice of many breads. Panera's artisan breads have a crisp crust and a tender heart and -- be forewarned -- are addictive. Sandwiches and such are made to order; soups are always ready.
The hot panini sandwiches, Coronado Carnitas, Frontega Chicken and Turkey Artichoke, are a joy ($5.99). Panini are made with Panera's focaccia bread, generously filled, then pressed on a hot grill. Cold sandwiches ($5.19-$6.29) are served on a variety of breads.
Potato chips are included with all sandwiches; a generous piece of baguette is included with soups ($3.29). Soups can also be ordered in a whole sourdough bread bowl ($4.59); a delicious, satisfying meal.
For $6.39 diners can select a bowl of soup and any half sandwich or half a sandwich and half a salad or soup with a half sandwich or half salad. There are so many choices here. Of course I haven't scratched the surface of the selection of pastries and other baked goods or the many beverages, coffees and teas. There's a no-tipping policy, but if you do tip the money is matched and contributed to local hunger relief and other charitable organizations. All this and a smiling, accommodating staff.
Short orders
Pirates and pastrami at TI: Canter's, the time-honored Los Angeles Jewish deli, will open Monday in a temporary space converted from the previous deli space in the casino race book at TI. Two longtime Canter's deli mavens have already moved to Las Vegas. The baker brought with him some of the starter for the famous sourdough rye. The limited menu includes a sampler plate, a good selection of sandwiches, a lox plate, soups including matzo ball and the "famous" barley bean, side dishes and cookies, New York cheesecake and chocolate chip race track cake. It's a beginning. The new full-service, 125-seat Canter's restaurant is scheduled to be completed by the end of the year. It will be built nearby the new pedestrian bridge that will come right into TI.
Also in the works and expected to be completed by year's end is a not-yet-named Richard Sandoval Mexican restaurant where Madame Ching's once was. Sandoval owns the Maya and Pompano restaurants in New York (Placido Domingo is his partner at Pompano), two restaurants in Denver and one in San Francisco. Sandoval's zesty cuisine is a combination of authentic classic Mexican with modern touches. Sandoval must be good; he vanquished Madame Ching, the fiercest pirate, female or not, that ever lived.
JW Marriott wine dinner: JW Marriott will join with Harrison wines at a winemaker dinner May 21. Dinner cost is $85 per person and includes a reception with hot and cold hors d'oeuvres and a three-course dinner with three Harrison wines -- Chef Peter Sherlock's citrus-cured Atlantic salmon with asparagus and caviar, pan-seared venison with juniper glaze and chocolate royale for dessert. For reservations, call 869-7241.
Fleming's hosts wine dinner: Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar at 8721 W. Charleston Blvd. will showcase the fine wines of Clos du Bois at a wine dinner May 29. Dinner price is $70 per person. Included are passed hors d'oeuvres and a four-course dinner -- salmon cake with fresh tomato relish, seared veal loin with truffle jus, beef medallion with spaghetti squash and wild rice timbale and a cardamom custard for dessert and five Clos du Bois wines. For reservations, call 838-4774.
archive
