Friday, May 23, 2003 | 9:11 a.m.
Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or [email protected].
The grand-opening celebration of Casino MonteLago at Lake Las Vegas on May 8 was a reminder of the days when Las Vegas casinos were small and friendly and you didn't need a cell phone to find your companion if you ended up in different areas.
It was a grand night for the neighborhood as well, because everyone was invited. There were so many people already enjoying the sights and the refreshments that I couldn't do my early walkabout to see the food. All I can say is that there was plenty of it everywhere, and everyone was happy. There is a small attractive cafe for casual dining. It, too, was filled with food.
Walk through the casino into MonteLago Village, an area coming to life with shops and restaurants. My companion and I opted to try to dine at Como's Steakhouse. Everyone else had the same idea, so it took a few minutes before we were seated and a few minutes more when we were joined by friends who needed seats -- and we had two more than we needed.
With four diners, we could taste a good portion of the menu, and we did.
Como's is a friendly place, and already popular. By the time we started to eat, the line waiting for tables snaked around the entrance. Timing is everything. Our early arrival saved the day.
Como's menu is wonderful. The same menu is in effect all day. I like being able to mix and match appetizers or have a sandwich any time of the day. Mostly American, Como's offers a delicious Maine lobster bisque with pieces of lobster as the reward when you reach the bottom and a tasty goat cheese and portobello mushroom tart ($8) along with oysters Rockefeller (their own spin), jumbo shrimp cocktail, lobster cocktail and onion soup gratinee ($7 to $15).
Among the salad selection ($6 to $14) is a classic Caesar, Cobb and a grilled prime rib salad with romaine lettuce, blue cheese, onion rings and a mustard vinaigrette.
Included with all sandwiches ($9 to $15) are Josef's shoestring potatoes; sandwiches are made with rustic bread. Como's Black Angus burger weighs in at a hefty 9 ounces.
We sipped our lobster bisque, savored an oyster Rockefeller, devoured a bowl of mussels in white wine sauce served with shoestring fries and labored over the entrees ($16 to $39). What to choose? We did have to compromise because we all seemed to want the same things.
Finally, we decided to share the New York strip, blackened halibut with an heirloom tomato salad, the signature double pork chop with apple-onion chutney (delish) and the grilled Atlantic salmon served with wilted greens with a citrus vinaigrette and au gratin potatoes.
The country meat loaf with mashed potatoes and a Port wine sauce being devoured by a man at at a nearby table was enormous -- the server proudly declared that it was the best meat loaf in town; it's certainly the biggest serving!
By now we had discovered that the chef de cuisine was Stephen Romeo, previously with Tsunami at The Venetian. Somehow he managed to come out of the kitchen for a few minutes. Among the chefs who prepared our dinner were Sous Chef Robin Nishazaki and Chefs Tournant Samanta Zota and Eric Schlicht. And it was so nice to see Chef Joseph Keller, corporate chef for Southern Wine & Spirits of Nevada, looking over the restaurant.
We were only going to taste two desserts, but once again could not decide, so we shared a scrumptious creme caramel, warm peach cobbler a la mode, a warm chocolate cake with an oozy center and an exceptional parfait of seasonal berries and sorbet.
The flavor of the berry sorbet was so appealing that I thought it was homemade, but learned that it is a custom flavor made for restaurants by our hometown dairy, Anderson's. So good.
Como's Steakhouse is open weekdays from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. It is suggested that reservations be made for weekends and holidays -- 567-9950.
"Hoover Dam Cooks, 1933": Relive the past with Cynthia Oakley, owner of Toothpick Productions in Boulder City. "Hoover Dam Cooks, 1933" (Toothpick Productions, $9.95), includes more than 300 recipes from the women who cooked for the men who built the dam.
This new book is a revised version of "Boulder Dam Souvenir and Cookbook" (copyright 1933), created by the Ladies Aid of Grace Community Church, Boulder City, Nevada.
"Hoover Dam Cooks, 1933," has 14 food chapters, with one titled "Icebox Cookery." Included are a recipe index and a list of the contributing cooks with their names and hometowns.
The Ladies Aid at Grace Community Church is today known as the Women's Association. Through the years they've published numerous cookbooks. The most recent is the "70th Anniversary of Grace Community Church," published in 2003.
Oakley's interest came about when she discovered a revised version "misclassified" in a community college library under "water resources." After finding the book, she promised herself that one day she would do something with it; at the time, she was earning a living as a guide, finishing college and raising two children.
The recipes are simple to make. The times, too, were simpler.
I wish Oakley had included some history about the original edition and about her own life. There's another book in her own life's story. Her marketing plan, unique though it was, worked."Hoover Dam Cooks, 1933" is available in many Boulder City stores or can be mail-ordered. The price, with handling and postage is $14. Call 293-4268.
Short orders
Sammy's raising funds for Children's network: Through the end of May Sammy's Woodfired Pizza will contribute 25 percent of the sales from Fox 5's news anchor John Overall's signature pizza -- a handmade, oak-roasted pizza with barbecued chicken, pineapple, mozzarella, Roma tomatoes, bell peppers and artichokes.
The Children's Miracle Network Telethon will appear live on Fox 5 at 5 p.m. May 31, and at 2 p.m. June 1. The children of Southern Nevada will be the beneficiaries. Order a pizza, tune in and contribute.
Aladdin to open Bonsai Sushi and Sake Bar: Aladdin hotel will debut Bonsai Sushi and Sake Bar Wednesday in the newly revamped space previously occupied by the Roc's Nest bar. With 60 seats and many enticements, Bonsai could be a new hot spot for aficionados of sushi, sashimi and sake.
Memphis Championship Barbecue brunch at Santa Fe Station: Memphis Championship Barbecue is offering a Southern-style Sunday brunch exclusively at Santa Fe Station.
Priced at $14.99 for adults and $6.99 for children, the brunch includes a carving station, build-your-own-omelets, all kinds of breakfast and lunch items, salads and more. Price includes a nonalcoholic beverage -- coffee, tea or sodas. Service from 10 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.
New Menu at Marie Callender's: Marie Callender's has added a number of updated dishes to its menu, including fresh salmon and asparagus cavatappi -- curly pasta, Louisiana jambalaya, Gorgonzola, pecan and field greens salad and grilled top sirloin with portobello mushroom topper. Most of the old favorites are still available along with the wide array of pies.
Fortune cookie messages at Pick Up Stix: Pick Up Stix restaurants are offering guests a chance to write a special "good luck" fortune cookie message to U.S. military personnel serving overseas. "Although the major combat missions in Iraq are completed, we still have a large number of troops overseas who face hard work and some danger. We want them to know we haven't forgotten them," said Charles Zhang, founder of Pick Up Stix. To participate in the program, dine at any Pick Up Stix.
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