Friday, May 30, 2003 | 9:43 a.m.
Muriel Stevens' dining column appears Fridays. Her shopping and travel columns appear Wednesday. Reach her at (702) 259-4080 or [email protected].
Ritz-Carlton, Lake Las Vegas was an ideal setting for the second anniversary dinner of the Epicurean Club. This fledging organization includes primo food and beverage directors and other industry-related executives who have joined to ensure that top-notch high school seniors who aspire to have a career in the culinary and hospitality fields will be recognized with four-year scholarships to the colleges of their choice.
Four Las Vegas-area students recently won the first scholarships.
But this was more than an anniversary celebration. It was a tribute to the contributions made to the food and wine scene by Andre Rochat, who opened Andre's French restaurant in downtown Las Vegas in 1980.
The original Andre's is located in one of Las Vegas' first residential areas and is a charming French Country eatery on South Sixth Street, a quiet neighborhood just behind the new Federal Courthouse.
With his business partner/wife, Mary Jane Jarvis, Andre opened a second Andre's at Monte Carlo Resort on the Strip in 1997 and the "crown jewel of his culinary trilogy," Alize at the top of the Palms, in 2001.
All of Andre's restaurants have won awards for their excellent food, service and wine and spirits lists. Wine Spectator magazine calls Andre's "A culinary Oasis."
Andre has been a mentor to many young chefs, sharing his expertise and his kitchen. When Andre's longtime friend, Chris Marcoux, a former chef turned successful businessman, spoke about his ami, it was with passion and emotion. They cooked together at a hotel that no longer exists and are as close as kin.
Andre is a modest, even shy, man. But he has never shied away from the truth or the rare consequence. When it was time for him to accept his award he spoke about those early days in Las Vegas and the wondrous city it has become. He paid tribute to Mary Jane for her business acumen and loyalty and love. Epicurean Club members showed their appreciation by giving her a lavish bouquet of gorgeous red roses.
The reception that preceded the dinner took place in the splendid Florentine gardens, abloom with fragrant flowers. At a variety of food stations chefs were cooking Maine lobster-mango spiedini, mini cheese ravioli with a sauce of tomato and basil and ahi tuna tartar caviartini -- served in a double martini glass. Servers passed savory country pork pate on truffled toast.
Central to the scene was the bar dispensing Moet Chandon Brut Imperial and international cocktails -- the Americano (Campari, Cinzano Sweet Vermouth and soda), the South American favorite, Caipirinha (Pitu Cachaca, rock candy syrup and fresh lime juice) and a Sauterne-tini (Belvedere Vodka, Dolce-Late Harvest and Chartreuse VEP).
The mixed drinks were concocted by Francesco Lafranconi of Southern Wine & Spirits of Nevada. Mellow and sweet, the music of the George Bugatti Quartet was another lovely element.
Kevin Dimond, Ritz-Carlton Director of Food and Beverage, called us to dinner with a blast from the signature cannon that showered us with colored streamers, but to no avail; We were having too much of a good thing and were reluctant to go.
When we finally did make our way to the Monte Lago Ballroom, Epicurean Club founding president Rino Armeni emceed the festive event with his usual witty aplomb.
Throughout the evening the elegant sounds of harpist Michelle Gott added a sweet dimension while we dined on a marbled, rich terrine of foie gras with sweet and tart rhubarb as the perfect counterpoint; seared scallops with pearl vegetable fricassee -- ah, the patience it takes to cut these miniscule "pearls" -- and morels and truffle foam; and caramelized beef tenderloin with ratatouille, horseradish potatoes and a cabernet sauvignon reduction.
Later came two desserts: apricot, nectarine and peach consomme accented with a dollop of "fromage blanc," and a lovely pistachio-chocolate cake with morello-cherry gelato.
And, finally, homemade chocolates, torone and lollipops and French press coffee and tea topped everything off.
Wines served with dinner included: Bernkastler Doktor, Dr. Thanish Reisling, Spatlese 2000; Hess Collection, cabernet sauvignon 1999; Ferrari Carano, Eldorado Noir 2000. Dessert was served with "Minuetto" -- Grand Marnier, Amoretto di Saronna, fresh mango, cream and Pyrat XO Rum, another original from Lafranconi.
A tip of the chapeau to Executive Chef Stephen Marshall, Chef de Cuisine Jeremy Lieb and Executive Pastry Chef Patrice Caillot for the delicious meal, and to Assistant Director of Food and Beverage Gabriele Babini, Catering Manager Roula Ankiri, Banquets Director Frank Contarino and Banquets Captain Jose Ramirez for orchestrating such a fine event.
Epicurean Club members and guests who attended were Coco and Tony Salah, Gretta and Luc Akellino, Tony Williams, Tedd Wade, Cyndi and Bob Bennett, John Thacker, Johanne and Pete Boyd, Larry Spitler, Mari-Christine and Claude Cevasco, Randi and Tamir Shanel, Kersten Dimond, Debbie and Frank Rigley, Laura and Joe Essa, Michelle and Tom Recine, Scott Farber, Susan and Adam Odegard, Jeffrey Fredricks and Jennifer Fernandez, Joey Marcoux, Bonnie and Bart Mahoney, David Hoenmeyer and Erin Mattera, Laura and Ed McSwain, Kelley Jones and Leslie Altemus and Brian Lerner with his mother, Shirley Lerner.
Bonsai sushi model: Who would have expected such a tantalizing display of sushi, sashimi and garnishes as the live display featured at the Aladdin's opening of Bonsai Sushi Bar? Credit Aladdin's VP of Food and Beverage, Brian Lerner, for the eye-popping display.
Bonsai's 60-seat sushi bar (there are tables, too) consists of an inner circle where the sushi chefs create and an outer circle about 10 feet away where diners sit. The chefs do come from behind the bar to chat with guests.
At the invitational opening on the outer bar was an amazing display of sushi and such. Also on display was "The world's only sushi model." She was clad from the waist down in a mermaid costume and from the waist up she was covered with Ti leaves (they're large) holding strategically placed sushi, sashimi and garnishes, tasty tidbits, all.
As Lerner said, "Once I saw the photos of this, I knew it would be the hit of the party."
It sounds racier than it is, but it certainly was a conversation piece. Do not expect to see this at Bonsai. Do expect a good assortment of the house specialties and a relaxed dining experience with a host of sakes and other libations.
Short orders
Slugging out for the Las Vegas hot dog title: Competitive eating is a big deal these days. Seemingly normal people go gut-to-gut and gorge till the last bite of whatever it is they're munching on like animals is gone.
Dethroned hot dog eating champ "Kid" Cary DeGrosa will once again take on arch rival Richard LeFevre at New York-New York's Nathan's Famous Hot Dog Eating Contest, at 1:30 p.m. Thursday. This grudge match winner will receive the title of Las Vegas Hot Dog Champion and the chance to compete in the Nathan's Famous Fourth of July International Hot Dog Eating Contest in Coney Island, N.Y., on July 4. What a way to make a name in the food biz.
Nine Fine Irishmen at New York-New York: New York-New York has announced the July opening of their intriguing and authentic Irish pub, Nine Fine Irishmen. This is as real as it gets, says a spokesman for the hotel. The Irish food will be served by an Irish chef; the Irish drinks will most surely have ye singing Irish songs. Nine Fine Irishmen will serve lunch and dinner during the week and around-the-clock dining and drinks on Fridays and Saturdays.
For more information, log on to ninefineirishmen.com.
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