Friday, April 16, 2004 | 8:22 a.m.
It takes brawn to heft the heavy glass steins at Hofbrauhaus Las Vegas, yet the comely young women who are part of the wait staff appear to do it effortlessly.
It's all part of the ongoing revelry at Hofbrauhaus Las Vegas at Harmon and Paradise roads. HLV is a replica (almost) of the original Hofbrauhaus in Munich.
Hofbrauhaus Las Vegas was the brainchild of four longtime Munich friends who met weekly for dinner -- Stefan Gustager, his brother Klaus Gustager, Franz Krondorfer and Anton Sinzger.
When Stefan proposed building a Hofbrauhaus replica in Las Vegas, the gang cheered. Not so happy was the father of Katharina, who was then Stefan's fiancee. Three years later the four friends had accomplished their goal. They received a license from the German government to build Hofbrauhaus Las Vegas and Stefan and Katharina got married.
Everyone loves life in Las Vegas (including Katharina's parents) and business is good.
It all sounds so easy. It wasn't. Yet after some setbacks with financing and construction delays Hofbrauhaus Las Vegas opened in January, and Klaus says the business has already built a loyal base of local and visiting patrons.
I'd met the adventurous owners of Hofbrauhaus Las Vegas long before it opened, so when visiting friends, all male, wanted to sample the food and the famous beers I was game.
We'd opted to dine in the Biergarten behind the main beer hall, where the oompah bands entertain. The heavy beech tree tables and chairs in the Biergarten as well as the tables and benches in the main beer hall were all made in Germany, then shipped and assembled by the carpenter who made them. He flew to Las Vegas to put together the parts.
The aroma of the food wafts over the ramp that leads to the restaurant. Inside is the bar, reservation desk and a charming gift shop. Open the doors to the main hall and laughter and music pour out. It's a welcoming sound. Behind the main hall, the sound level of the Biergarten is reasonable.
During lunch hours, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., there is no live music. The same menu is in effect all day. Included are soups and other starters; Bavarian snacks, such as wurst salad and a cold-cut plate; salads, burgers and sandwiches Bavarian style; classic Bavarian sausage specialties and such popular Bavarian fare as sauerbraten, marinated Bavarian pot roast; Wiener schnitzel, a classic breaded pork cutlet that's bigger than the plate; schweinbraten, Munich pork roast served with two humongous dumplings -- a bread and a potato -- and jagerschnitzel, pork cutlet Hunter-style with mushroom sauce and spatzle.
My friends were in hog heaven. While we waited for our entrees they sampled all the beers, starting with the small steins and working their way up to the liter size once they'd found a favorite. With the beer we ate fat Bavarian pretzels made from dough that is flown in frozen from Munich and freshly baked as needed. The mustard, another import, was perfect.
Also included on the menu are a few fish dishes, a few vegetarian dishes and a number of side dishes that could make a meal. Kids can order hot dogs, chicken fingers or noodles.
Prices are moderate. Sausage plates are priced from $8.95; entrees from $12.95. One minor complaint: The seasoning has been adjusted to satisfy American tastes, but my Weiner schnitzel was wonderful. This is the kind of food that encourages sharing and conversation. I was the only one who took food home.
My slim, macho dining companions were clean platers. In addition to the entrees we ordered a sampling of Munich's famous white sausages (one poached; one grilled) and a side of tender, flavorful spatzle.
We shared two slices of warm apple strudel -- real apple strudel that had been made with thin, hand-pulled dough. The apples were tender and not too sweet; the dough was heavenly. The strudel had been warmed in an oven, not a microwave, so it was tender and crisp. There are other desserts, including black forest cake and Bavarian cheesecake, but the strudel is super.
In addition to the beer selection (changes seasonally) Hofbrauhaus offers wines by the glass or bottle, signature German-inspired cocktails and schnapps.
We stopped by the gift shop before departing. Stefan Gustager is a lucky man. His frau, Katharina, not only manages the attractive store, she designs much of the merchandise.
For Hofbrauhaus reservations or more information, call 853-2337.
The District's Ethel M Chocolates and Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf host pairing parties: What could be friendlier and more delicious than Ethel M chocolates paired with teas and coffees from The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf at their new locations in The District at Green Valley Ranch.
Saturday's pairing at Ethel M at 2 p.m. is a casual stand-around-and-sip while sampling those divine Ethel M chocolates; Sunday's pairing at The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf shop at 2 p.m. will include seating. Bonnie LaDou, Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf's coffee and tea expert, will share pairing secrets on both days. There is no charge for informative sessions, but come early; space is limited.
Short orders
Rio Pavilion and Convention Center celebrates it kosher kitchen: The Rio's full-time kosher kitchen turns one year old April 27. The Rio's kosher kitchen was in response to the many requests made by the local Jewish community for a reasonably priced kosher facility.
Rabbi Yaakov Wasser from Temple Shaarei Tefilla oversees all of the kosher events and supervises each element of the kosher kitchen and the meals that are prepared in the hotel. For more information about The Rio's kosher kitchen call the Rio Convention Center catering department.
Blimpie's Subs and Salads of Las Vegas kicks off 40th anniversary celebration: Blimpie's at 5665 South Pecos Road is introducing a yearlong 40th anniversary celebration by introducing San Francisco-style Sourdough Cafe Sandwiches for a limited time. Golden Gater Gourmet -- Italian herb turkey and Provolone cheese; Cable Car Club, roast beef, ham, turkey and Swiss cheese; Fisherman's Wharf Tuna Melt, low-fat tuna with cheddar cheese, tomatoes and onions; and Union Square Ultimate Veggie, cucumbers, black olives, banana peppers, tomatoes, lettuce and Swiss cheese with a splash of balsamic vinegar.
Blimpie's is planning many promotions and consumer opportunities over the next 12 months. To learn more stop by the Pecos Road outlet.
New personal chef in Las Vegas: Ann Moses, who used to hang out with Elvis Presley and many stars of the '60s and '70s (she has an interesting history), will share stories and her culinary talent with clients who hire her to cook their meals. Ann Moses Marino and her husband, Tony Marino (one-time news director at KVBC Channel 3 News), have recently returned to Las Vegas where their sons live. They all live in Summerlin. Ann and Tony have been cooking for clients for the past two months.
Ann is a graduate of the United States Personal Chef Institute's Culinary Arts and Mentorship Program; she has earned the title of personal chef and is a member of the United States Personal Chef Association. For more information about Ann's personal chef service, Dinner & Dessert, visit http://uspca.com or call 243-4535 or 280-0555. The mustard, another import, was perfect.
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