The art of wax hair removal: Where, how often and how much

By Katie Visconti, Special to The Sunday

Sunday, July 30, 2017 | 2 a.m.

Whether you go to a salon to get a professional treatment or go to your computer to search DIY waxing videos, you’ve probably learned there is an art to waxing (and tasks that should just be left to the pros).

With variations of wax, styles of treatment and dozens of articles arguing for or against removing certain body hair, the quest for silky skin can be anything but smooth.

Before heading to the salon or store, use this guide from two waxing experts — Sasha Richard at Spa Mio at the M, and Niki Amato at Green Valley Resort and Spa — to decide what is right for you.

Why wax?

• Waxing is one of the most effective ways to remove hair and slow hair growth. It also can be used on almost any part of the body, including delicate skin like the bikini and facial areas, or less sensitive skin like the legs or back.

• Waxing reduces the likelihood of ingrown hairs and can exfoliate dead skin and remove blackheads, Richard said.

• Waxing is not recommended for certain skin types, Richard said. Skin with rosacea, active break-outs, sunburns or skin being treated with lightening or whitening products could become more irritated after waxing. Discuss with your aesthetician.

Types of wax

• Hard wax is heated and applied to the skin, and does not require cotton or muslin for removal. It is the most common for in-salon treatments.

• Soft wax is heated and needs cotton or muslin to be removed. This is commonly seen in beauty supply stores and in DIY waxing articles and videos.

• Sugar wax is room temperature and is made with sugar, lemon and water. This method binds only to the hair, whereas hard and soft wax remove a layer of skin.

How it works (and doesn't)

• DIY can be risky because of skin patterns. (1) Wax is applied in the direction of the hair (2) and pulled off in the opposite, (3) but some areas propose more of a challenge, Amato said. For bikini and underarms, hair grows in many patterns (4) and the skin can be thinner, making these areas less than ideal for an at-home treatment.

• Common mistakes for DIY waxing are overheating the wax and burning the skin, or getting the wax stuck. “Some people get scared to do the actual ‘pull’ and end up Googling ways to remove wax without ripping the strip off,” Richard said.

Myths

1. Hair will grow back thicker or darker.

False. The follicle becomes weaker and thinner, making this myth easily busted.

2. Menstruation does not affect the waxing process.

False. Pain tolerance is heightened along with sensitivity. Many medications also increase skin sensitivity.

3. Your hair has to be long to be waxed.

False. Hair as short as a quarter-inch (think a grain of rice) is suitable for waxing.

4. It’s bad for your skin.

False. This one is dependent on skin type and aftercare of the client. Waxing opens the pores and removes dead skin, making it more susceptible to germs and bacteria. Making sure it is properly cleaned before and after is key. Richard recommends Lycon Ingrown X-it Solution to reduce ingrown hairs, and Amato recommends Tend Skin to soothe.

Body recommendations

Richard and Amato stress that each skin type is different and duration between waxings may be different depending on age, sex and genetics.

• Face: Every 2-3 weeks, especially if you are including brows — tweezing in between can ruin the desired shape.

If you use Retinol-based products, be sure to stop using them three days before waxing.

Cost: full face $60-$80; brows $20-$30

• Back: Every 4-6 weeks, but some men may go as often as every three weeks.

Cost: Starts at $70

• Underarms: Every 3-4 weeks.

Cost: $35

• Arms: Every 4-5 weeks.

Cost: Half arm $40; full arm $60

• Bikini Line/Brazilian: Every 3 weeks.

Cost: Starts at $85

• Legs: Every 4-5 weeks.

Cost: Half leg, $50; full leg $80